ACROSS ASIA ON A BICYCLE
[Illustration: THROUGH WESTERN CHINA IN LIGHT MARCHING ORDER.]
ACROSS ASIA ON A BICYCLE
THE JOURNEY OF TWO AMERICAN STUDENTS FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO PEKING
BY THOMAS GASKELL ALLEN, JR. AND WILLIAM LEWIS SACHTLEBEN
NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1894
Copyright, 1894, by THE CENTURY CO.
_All rights reserved._
THE DEVINNE PRESS.
TO
_THOSE AT HOME_
WHOSE THOUGHTS AND WISHES WERE EVER WITH US IN OUR WANDERINGS
PREFACE
This volume is made up of a series of sketches describing the most interesting part of a bicycle journey around the world,--our ride across Asia. We were actuated by no desire to make a "record" in bicycle travel, although we covered 15,044 miles on the wheel, the longest continuous land journey ever made around the world.
The day after we were graduated at Washington University, St. Louis, Mo., we left for New York. Thence we sailed for Liverpool on June 23, 1890. Just three years afterward, lacking twenty days, we rolled into New York on our wheels, having "put a girdle round the earth."
Our bicycling experience began at Liverpool. After following many of the beaten lines of travel in the British Isles we arrived in London, where we formed our plans for traveling across Europe, Asia, and America. The most dangerous regions to be traversed in such a journey, we were told, were western China, the Desert of Gobi, and central China. Never since the days of Marco Polo had a European traveler succeeded in crossing the Chinese empire from the west to Peking.
Crossing the Channel, we rode through Normandy to Paris, across the lowlands of western France to Bordeaux, eastward over the Lesser Alps to Marseilles, and along the Riviera into Italy. After visiting every important city on the peninsula, we left Italy at Brindisi on the last day of 1890 for Corfu, in Greece. Thence we traveled to Patras, proceeding along the Corinthian Gulf to Athens, where we passed the winter. We went to Constantinople by vessel in the spring, crossed the Bosporus in April, and began the long journey described in the following pages. When we had finally completed our travels in the Flowery Kingdom, we sailed from Shanghai for Japan. Thence we voyaged to San Francisco, where we arrived on Christmas night, 1892. Three weeks later we resumed our bicycles and wheeled by way of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas to New York.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Across Asia on a Bicycle by Allen and Sachtleben
- 2: 86 yard of caravansary at tabreez
- 3: 168 monument to a priest at urumtsi
- 4: In London the secretary of the Chinese legation
- 5: We had already passed through Ismid
- 6: Illustration AN ANGORA SHEPHERD
- 7: The old mud houses of modern Angora
- 8: And a cousin of the Vali at Angora
- 9: Bairam is the period of feasting after the Ramadan fast
- 10: While their ladles dropped into the soup
- 11: 000 feet above the city of Kaisarieh
- 12: On the street a shroud like robe called yashmak
- 13: The Son of the Sultan of Sultans
- 14: A merchant is not a merchant at all
- 15: The kadi became informal and chatty
- 16: The Kizil Irmak and Yeshil Irmak
- 17: The Vali was evidently in a bad humor
- 18: The isolated position of Ararat
- 19: There is a middle zone on Mount Ararat
- 20: The one taken by General Chodzko
- 21: The following morning we paid the mutessarif a second visit
- 22: And winked at the zaptieh to give the proper explanation
- 23: Passing now and then a Kurdish lad
- 24: Illustration THE KURDISH ENCAMPMENT
- 25: Our zaptiehs proved a nuisance
- 26: Whither the zaptiehs had proceeded to wait for us
- 27: The Kurdish tents far down the slope
- 28: Leaping from boulder to boulder
- 29: With the alpenstocks hooked into the rocks above
- 30: Both tops are hummocks on the huge dome of Ararat
- 31: Driven against us by the hurricane
- 32: Which the mutessarif forced upon us
- 33: Illustration HARVEST SCENE NEAR KHOI
- 34: Illustration LUMBER YARD AT TABREEZ
- 35: Which we followed very closely from Tabreez to Teheran
- 36: Ding dong of the deep toned camel bells
- 37: Or across the deserts of southern Persia and Baluchistan
- 38: As well as white turbaned mollas
- 39: A present from the village khan was announced
- 40: Illustration PILGRIM STONE HEAPS OVERLOOKING MESHED
- 41: In connection with the Transcaspian railway
- 42: And the present terminus of the Transcaspian railway
- 43: Illustration A MARKET PLACE IN SAMARKAND
- 44: Was engaged in Tashkend in the interest of his father
- 45: Is especially pretentious in Tashkend
- 46: Petersburg through the United States minister
- 47: Occupying probably one half of the whole Turkestan steppe
- 48: The usual rations of a Russian post station
- 49: And on the chromo covered walls
- 50: Illustration KIRGHIZ ERECTING KIBITKAS BY THE CHU RIVER
- 51: Had a rudely constructed cot at the far end of the kibitka
- 52: Advised a divergence from the Siberian route at Altin Imell
- 53: The fertile province of Kuldja
- 54: Illustration THE CHINESE MILITARY COMMANDER OF KULDJA
- 55: To the Kuldja Tootai for the proper vise
- 56: The very recently coined liang
- 57: Through the carelessness of the Kuldja Russian blacksmith
- 58: With constant wading and tramping
- 59: Illustration RIDING BEFORE THE GOVERNOR OF MANAS
- 60: Illustration A BANK IN URUMTSI
- 61: Illustration STYLISH CART OF A CHINESE MANDARIN
- 62: Was the native name for our rubber tires
- 63: Illustration CHINESE GRAVES ON THE ROAD TO HAMI
- 64: Cutting the Gobi into two great sections
- 65: Illustration IN THE GOBI DESERT
- 66: The outlying town of Ngan si chou
- 67: The Dungan restaurant keeper would not cook it
- 68: The Ling Darin informed us that a can of this milk
- 69: The prevailing cereals north of the Hoang ho river
- 70: The pedal of one of the machines struck upon a protuberance
- 71: Illustration TWO PAGODAS AT LAN CHOU FOO
- 72: Illustration MISSIONARIES AT LAN CHOU FOO
- 73: Illustration MISSIONARIES AT TAI YUEN FOO
- 74: Vast fields of peanuts were now being plowed
- 75: Or between That belong number one pidjin
- 76: Steam navigation in the Pei ho river
- 77: The yamen itself consisted of low one story structures
- 78: The viceroy was preceded by two body servants
- 79: The viceroy himself had a similar expectation
- 80: Szuedzun chay self moving cart
- 81: And took another whiff from the long
- 82: During the conversation the viceroy frequently smiled
