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ACROSS CHINA ON FOOT
_By_
EDWIN JOHN DINGLE
1911
IN GRATEFUL ESTEEM
DURING MY TRAVELS IN INTERIOR CHINA I ONCE LAY AT THE POINT OF DEATH. FOR THEIR UNREMITTING KINDNESS DURING A LONG ILLNESS, I NOW AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBE THIS VOLUME TO MY FRIENDS, MR. AND MRS. A. EVANS, OF TONG-CH'UAN-FU, YUeN-NAN, SOUTH-WEST CHINA, TO WHOSE DEVOTED NURSING AND UNTIRING CARE I OWE MY LIFE.
CONTENTS
BOOK I.
FROM THE STRAITS TO SHANGHAI--INTRODUCTORY
FIRST JOURNEY.
CHAPTER I. FROM SHANGHAI UP THE LOWER YANGTZE TO ICHANG
SECOND JOURNEY--ICHANG TO CHUNG-KING THROUGH THE YANGTZE GORGES.
CHAPTER II. THE ICHANG GORGE CHAPTER III. THE YANGTZE RAPIDS CHAPTER IV. THE YEH T'AN RAPID. ARRIVAL AT KWEIEU
THIRD JOURNEY--CHUNG-KING TO SUI-FU (VIA LUCHOW).
CHAPTER V. BEGINNING OF THE OVERLAND JOURNEY CHAPTER VI. THE PEOPLE OF SZECH'WAN
FOURTH JOURNEY--SUI-FU TO CHAO-T'ONG-FU (VIA LAO-WA-T'AN).
CHAPTER VII. DESCRIPTION OF JOURNEY FROM SUI-FU CHAPTER VIII. SZECH'WAN AND YUeN-NAN
THE CHAO-T'ONG REBELLION OF 1910.
CHAPTER IX.
THE TRIBES OF NORTH-EAST YUeN-NAN, AND MISSION WORK AMONG THEM.
CHAPTER X.
FIFTH JOURNEY--CHAO-T'ONG-FU TO TONG-CH'UAN-FU.
CHAPTER XI. AUTHOR MEETS WITH ACCIDENT CHAPTER XII. YUeN-NAN'S CHECKERED CAREER. ILLNESS OF AUTHOR
BOOK II.
FIRST JOURNEY--TONG-CH'UAN-FU TO THE CAPITAL.
CHAPTER XIII. DEPARTURE FOR BURMA. DISCOMFORTS OF TRAVEL CHAPTER XIV. YUeN-NAN-FU, THE CAPITAL
SECOND JOURNEY--YUeN-NAN-FU TO TALI-FU (VIA CH'U-HSIONG-FU).
CHAPTER XV. DOES CHINA WANT THE FOREIGNER? CHAPTER XVI. LU-FENG-HSIEN. MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY. CHINESE UNTRUTHFULNESS CHAPTER XVII. KWANG-TUNG-HSIEN TO SHACHIAO-KA CHAPTER XVIII. STORM IN THE MOUNTAINS. AT HUNGAY CHAPTER XIX. THE REFORM MOVEMENT IN YUeN-NAN. ARRIVAL AT TALI-FU
THIRD JOURNEY--TALI-FU TO THE MEKONG VALLEY.
CHAPTER XX. HARDEST PART OF THE JOURNEY.HWAN-LIEN-P'U CHAPTER XXI. THE MOUNTAINS OF YUeN-NAN. SHAYUNG. OPIUM SMOKING
FOURTH JOURNEY--THE MEKONG VALLEY TO TENGYUEH.
CHAPTER XXII. THE RIVER MEKONG CHAPTER XXIII. THROUGH THE SALWEN VALLEY TO TENGYUEH CHAPTER XXIV. THE LI-SU TRIBE OF THE SALWEN VALLEY
FIFTH JOURNEY--TENGYUEH (MOMIEN) TO BHAMO IN UPPER BURMA.
CHAPTER XXV. SHANS AND KACHINS CHAPTER XXVI. END OF LONG JOURNEY. ARRIVAL IN BURMA
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Across China on Foot by Edwin John Dingle
- 2: Subsequently I returned into Yuen nan from Burma
- 3: Foreign population of Shanghai
- 4: We agreed to cross China on foot
- 5: Saigon is not troubled much by the Britisher
- 6: Commercial and industrial future of Hankow
- 7: And thence to Ichang by a smaller steamer
- 8: But we believed in the Chinese
- 9: Was not the lightest of sundry perplexities
- 10: Eventually cruelly blurting out
- 11: The stupendous cliffs of the Ichang Gorge
- 12: After a small feed of curry and rice
- 13: Under the gaze of a Yangtze crew
- 14: Ours was a wu pan literally five boards
- 15: In parting with the men after our safe arrival at Chung king
- 16: The smallest used by travelers on the Upper Yangtze
- 17: Was formed by a landslip as recently as 1896
- 18: Hint to Hong Kong Chamber of Commerce
- 19: Fagged and famished beings are these trackers
- 20: But the trackers are strange creatures
- 21: From Kweifu to Wan Hsien is a tedious journey
- 22: Where transhipment will be made to Haiphong
- 23: He wantchee makee much bobbery
- 24: Chung king people treated us well
- 25: The whole route from Chung king to Sui fu
- 26: For they are all coolies and have the coolie thirst
- 27: Over the bedstead more often than not
- 28: Are by many degrees better than those of Yuen nan
- 29: Szech wan people a mercenary lot
- 30: Vaster than the realm of noise
- 31: And one finding himself in Yuen nan
- 32: In any city or village in Szech'wan or in Yuen nan
- 33: But owing to some misunderstanding between the fu song
- 34: She wantchee makee talkee talk
- 35: When pulling into the shadows of the Sui fu pagoda
- 36: And start laying the line from Chen tu
- 37: Sui fu to chao t'ong fu via lao wa t'an
- 38: Chilly morning that I left Sui fu
- 39: Thus the Wuchai Valley is arrived at
- 40: The day of the foreign concession is gone
- 41: I think p'laps master wantchee makee run away
- 42: But the solitude was the best of all
- 43: Remarkable bonfire at Yuen nan fu
- 44: Beckoning me on by the narrow ribbon in the distance
- 45: As against 11 catties in the capital of the province
- 46: Especially since the exit of opium
- 47: There is practically no opium in Yuen nan to talk about
- 48: Being suspected at Yuen nan fu
- 49: Wantchee one piecee very much tall
- 50: And the Yuen nan Railway rumor
- 51: Such was the Chao t'ong Rebellion
- 52: When an I pien one of the tribes
- 53: Were perturbed all this time by rumors coming from Weining
- 54: Liu ordered that two be beheaded immediately
- 55: Huang was killed in the usual way
- 56: From Chao t'ong to Yuen nan fu
- 57: THE TRIBES OF NORTH EAST YUeN NAN
- 58: Among the Hua Miao for several months
- 59: We come to the Miao village of Loh In shan
- 60: Ii The Heh Miao The Black Miao
- 61: At the time of the great Miao revival
- 62: The Miao contributed one hundred pounds sterling
- 63: The Nou su were gradually thinned out
- 64: That portion of the tribe which migrated across the Yangtze
- 65: A Nou su looked upon a girl one day
- 66: But who are merely tenants of the Tu muh
- 67: On the pole an old ploughshare is fixed
- 68: Ilsomo seems to be a spirit who has control over the crops
- 69: The Pehmo then proceeds with his incantation
- 70: The Kiang ti Suspension Bridge
- 71: Erected by the Li family of Chao t'ong fu
- 72: Threw the poultice to the floor
- 73: At the dirty little village of Ta shui tsing
- 74: It is roughly four thousand feet below Ta shui tsing
- 75: Considerably below Ya ko t'ang
- 76: Picturesque nooks and winding pathways
- 77: Protestants and Romanists in Yuen nan
- 78: Another kind of road a mud road
- 79: Which has been roughly smelted once
- 80: Leaving Tong ch'uan fu on the road to Yuen nan fu
- 81: Tong ch'uan fu is a city of many scholars
- 82: Tali fu to Tengyueh Momien 855 li
- 83: 3rd day Kongshan 100 li
- 84: But the scenery later in the day
- 85: 100 feet and Hsiao lang t'ang 7
- 86: Pegging on alone at the mercy of these coolies
- 87: A floor and a ceiling comprise one
- 88: Most travelers go through Yang lin
- 89: Some of the conundrums are perhaps superficial
- 90: Ch'ang p'o 100 li foreign mandarin
- 91: The man who visited Yuen nan fu twenty
- 92: THE RAILWAY The Tonkin Yuen nan Railway
- 93: Officers strutting about in peacock fashion
- 94: Yuen nan is in need of military reform
- 95: Was scrupulously clean for China
- 96: As we passed along I smelt a strong smell of opium
- 97: In the southeast of Yuen nan province
- 98: Upon which alone twenty thousand taels were spent
- 99: Through shed after shed filled with these trays of silkworms
- 100: 7th day Ch'u hsiong fu 70 li 6
- 101: Comes to us from true simplicity
- 102: China is discovering has discovered officially
- 103: The European is not wanted in China
- 104: No social ties protect the Miao women
- 105: Not so now with the Christian Miao
- 106: Ponies were being loaded near my table
- 107: The historian will have little to say of Lu feng hsien
- 108: Sei tze where we were to sleep 6
- 109: My men had a good feed of rice and cabbage
- 110: Roads here were in many cases of a light loess
- 111: The Chinese knows that the Englishman is not a liar
- 112: Most of my opinion of the real Chinese is formed in Yuen nan
- 113: All round idyllic peace did not reign at Kwang tung hsien
- 114: Pride has been said to make a man a hedgehog
- 115: The frankness of your humor delights us
- 116: Directly under the quarry I was accosted by a beggar
- 117: Who limped along leisurely behind me
- 118: Headed by a sort of gaffer with a gong
- 119: Chinese speak of sons as little puppies
- 120: Over the mountains to Pu peng A magnificent storm
- 121: And this same coolie sat on the other
- 122: I descended again to common things
- 123: After the Lolo have mingled with the Chinese for a few years
- 124: Ruts which disfigure the surface
- 125: Not the means of pampering the carcass
- 126: In such calamities the Chinese
- 127: All along the main roads of China one meets likin stations
- 128: And endless other ornaments of wealth
- 129: The young men of Yuen nan and the Reform Movement
- 130: And who was at that moment at Chen tu
- 131: After centuries of isolated seclusion
- 132: Chao chow gave me a very decent inn
- 133: Of which Hsiakwan is the commercial entrepot
- 134: When Tali fu was threatened by rebels
- 135: Third journeytali fu to the mekong valley chapter xx
- 136: 5th day Hwan lien p'u 50 li 5
- 137: He had been suffering from toothache
- 138: So much so that he dropped his loads alongside the corpse
- 139: And little inducement is held out for the coolies to stop
- 140: That is Hwan lien p'u's one little narrow street
- 141: Mission work among smokers and eaters
- 142: While the men are mixing the mud
- 143: To Ch'u tung was a tedious journey
- 144: Ch'u tung is a Mohammedan town
- 145: And their antiquated topboots much better
- 146: Where opium refuges have been conducted by missionaries
- 147: Far towards Tengyueh they are 12
- 148: The Mekong is at this point just 4
- 149: And in chasing her knocked over the pun of pots aforesaid
- 150: We smoked and drank tea and yarned
- 151: In the evening we are at Yung ch'ang
- 152: And was relieved to reach Pu piao
- 153: The anger of a grizzly old dame
- 154: And was the first to arrive at Yung ch'ang
- 155: Dangers of the Salwen Valley exaggerated
- 156: And explained how the Chinese had gone ahead there
- 157: Of the Customs staff at Tengyueh
- 158: Which they wore outside over their Chinese caps
- 159: With a roaring gale blowing through the latticed bamboo
- 160: An easy stage brought me to Tengyueh
- 161: Litton on an excursion to the Upper Salwen
- 162: Absence of disagreement in Shan language
- 163: 8th day Bhamo Singai miles
- 164: I chimed in with my infallible Puh tong
- 165: The dress of the Chinese Shans
- 166: Arrival at borderland of Burma
- 167: I was now two days' march from the British Burma border
- 168: There is a railway to Tengyueh from Burma
- 169: I got my photographs of Kachins
- 170: Bowed again a long curving bow
- 171: Of ancient Chinese life is here still
- 172: 1910 are surveying a route from Yuen nan fu to the Yangtze
- 173: Picture was taken in British concession of Hankow
- 174: The children at the right are Hua Miao
- 175: Picture shows tunnel leading underground
- 176: Illustration Top left Hua Miao