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ACCOUNT OF A TOUR IN NORMANDY Volume I
by Dawson Turner
LETTERS FROM NORMANDY
ADDRESSED TO THE REV. JAMES LAYTON, B.A. OF CATFIELD, NORFOLK.
UNDERTAKEN CHIEFLY FOR THE PURPOSE OF INVESTIGATING THE ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES OF THE DUCHY, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON ITS HISTORY, ON THE COUNTRY, AND ON ITS INHABITANTS.
ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS.
VOL. I.
LONDON: 1820.
PREFACE.
The observations which form the basis of the following letters, were collected during three successive tours in Normandy, in the summers of 1815, 1818, and 1819; but chiefly in the second of these years. Where I have not depended upon my own remarks, I have endeavored, as far as appeared practicable and without tedious minuteness, to quote my authorities for facts; and I believe that I have done so in most instances, except indeed where I have borrowed from the journals of the companions of my tours,--the nearest and dearest of my connections,--or from that of my friend, Mr. Cohen, who, at almost the same time, travelled through a great part of Normandy, pursuing also very similar objects of inquiry. The materials obtained from these sources, it has been impossible to separate from my own; and, interwoven as they are with the rest of the text, it is only in my power to acknowledge, in these general terms, the assistance which I have thus received.--We were proceeding in 1818, to the southern and western districts of Normandy, when a domestic calamity compelled me to return to England. The tour was consequently abridged, and many places of note remained unvisited by us.
My narrative is principally addressed to those readers who find pleasure in the investigation of architectural antiquity. Without the slightest pretensions to the character either of an architect or of an antiquarian, engaged in other avocations and employed in other studies, I am but too conscious of my inability to do justice to the subject. Yet my remarks may at least assist the future traveller, by pointing out such objects as are interesting, either on account of their antiquity or their architectural worth. This information is not to be obtained from the French, who have habitually neglected the investigation of their national monuments. I doubt, however, whether I should have ventured upon publication, if those who have always accompanied me both at home and abroad, had not produced the illustrations which constitute the principal value of my volumes. Of the merits of these illustrations I must not be allowed to speak; but it may be permitted me to observe, that the fine arts afford the only mode of exerting the talents of woman, which does not violate the spirit of the precept which the greatest historian of antiquity has ascribed to the greatest of her heroes--
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Account of a Tour in Normandy, Volume 1 by Turner
- 2: Caesars Camp Castle of Arques
- 3: Plate 15 Ditto of an Archbishop
- 4: The first approach to Dieppe is extremely striking
- 5: Wreaked their vengeance upon Dieppe
- 6: And throughout the whole Pays de Caux
- 7: In the immediate vicinity of Dieppe
- 8: Freed Dieppe from the dominion of the English
- 9: And the pendants of the Lady Chapel
- 10: And to have called it Bertheville
- 11: Tui sunt signa triumphi Deppa
- 12: The sailors of Dieppe were not confined to their own seas
- 13: And the clergy of the parish of St
- 14: The people called him Grimaldi
- 15: Molent ubi idem Archiepiscopus volet
- 16: And in this space the interior fosse is still very visible
- 17: While besieging Dieppe in the middle of the XVth century
- 18: Lies the town of Arques itself
- 19: The castle is evidently a building of different aeras
- 20: Visited the field of battle at Arques
- 21: Whose agger is of about the same elevation
- 22: We are told in the Neustria Pia 24
- 23: As we follow the course of the little river Cailly
- 24: Rouen is still a strong city
- 25: In consequence of the expence of repairing it
- 26: And who are frequently seen on the grand cours
- 27: Against his brother Robert Courthose
- 28: Which are peculiar to the Pays de Caux
- 29: For which Fecamp was long celebrated
- 30: Felt that it would be best at Fecamp
- 31: Fecamp moreover could boast of a noble library
- 32: The fortifications of Fecamp are destroyed
- 33: Over which an abbess of royal blood had presided
- 34: Instead of Hareflot and Huneflot
- 35: Re peopled Harfleur with English
- 36: 27 Description de la Haute Normandie
- 37: And yet even Havre is now suffering and depressed
- 38: Who was the real founder 42 of Havre
- 39: Under the appellation of la Grande Nau Francoise
- 40: Bolbec can lay claim to no similar distinction
- 41: Clotharius was then residing at Soissons
- 42: With this digression I bid farewell to Yvetot
- 43: Description de la Haute Normandie
- 44: Percepta Clotarii indignatione
- 45: There is a material improvement at Rouen
- 46: They include the abolition of the game laws
- 47: And the electors in the electoral assembly
- 48: For the articles manufactured at Rouen
- 49: Acquired the appellation of la Vieille Tour
- 50: It was necessary that the dragon should be caught
- 51: The widow and daughter of Hallot
- 52: Nullum quod tetigit non ornavit
- 53: There were certain monks of Rouen
- 54: And with it they returned to their monastery at Rouen
- 55: Which says 'battez vous contre ceux qui vous opposent
- 56: Mommeries ou mascarades audit iour de l'Ascension
- 57: Essais sur le Departement de la Seine Inferieure
- 58: Gervais also stands without the walls of Rouen
- 59: Apsis is very curious it is obtusely angular
- 60: But a buttress of a subsequent
- 61: To meselle houses of that same rond
- 62: Of the real time of the erection of the church at Lery
- 63: Yainville is a parish adjoining Jumieges
- 64: Open screens of the most elegant tracery
- 65: And was buried in the nave of the cathedral
- 66: The windows of the nave are crowned by pediments
- 67: Endangered by the carelessness of the plumbers
- 68: 84 Ditto of aisles and chapels
- 69: Two other epitaphs in rhyming Latin
- 70: On the opposite side HIC JACET HENRICUS JUNIOR
- 71: Once Grand Seneschal of Normandy
- 72: Illustration Equestrian Figure of the Seneschal de Breze
- 73: Commonly called la salle de la Croix
- 74: The present archbishop is the Cardinal Cambaceres
- 75: Was termed Mitra Aurifrygiata
- 76: The Mozetta is laid aside
- 77: Et reprirent par force La chasse du Patron
- 78: Like most of the religious buildings at Rouen
- 79: Ouen was deposited in the edifice
- 80: Pommeraye has given an engraving of this intended front
- 81: That commemorates Alexander Berneval
- 82: Trado vobis Dominum Archiepiscopum Rothomagensem vivum
- 83: Maclou is unquestionably superior to every other in the city
- 84: Godard possesses neither architectural beauty
- 85: Plusieurs ornemens et vestemens sacrez
- 86: 102 Histoire des Archeveques de Rouen
- 87: And they are divided by one mullion and one transom
- 88: The ceiling is all inlaid with gold
- 89: Taillepied was an eye witness of their practices
- 90: Or imitated from the triumphs introduced in the Polifilo
- 91: As to derive beffroi from bis effroi
- 92: The Hospice General and the Hotel Dieu
- 93: Quoting from a book printed at Rouen
- 94: Abbas Conardorum et inconardorum ex quacumque Natione
- 95: The Historia Normannorum is incomplete
- 96: Are a Benedictionary and a Missal
- 97: It is to the credit of the inhabitants of Rouen
- 98: Descamps died at the close of the last century
- 99: The inelegance of their draperies
- 100: Rouen also possesses a Botanic Garden
- 101: Postremo corporis et fortunae bonorum
- 102: Equal to the Velocasses and Veromandui together
- 103: Name originally borne by the Conards
- 104: Given by Henry IInd to the abbey
- 105: Metropolis of the Caletes Living
- 106: Denies the existence of the kingdom of Yvetot
