In this text superscript is represented with '^' and a macron with [=o]
DEVON
ITS MOORLANDS, STREAMS, & COASTS
by
LADY ROSALIND NORTHCOTE
With Illustrations in Colour after Frederick J. Widgery
London Exeter Chatto & Windus James G. Commin M CM VIII
Deep-wooded combes, clear-mounded hills of morn, Red sunset tides against a red sea-wall, High lonely barrows where the curlews call, Far moors that echo to the ringing horn,-- Devon! thou spirit of all these beauties born, All these are thine, but thou art more than all: Speech can but tell thy name, praise can but fall Beneath the cold white sea-mist of thy scorn.
Yet, yet, O noble land, forbid us not Even now to join our faint memorial chime To the fierce chant wherewith their hearts were hot Who took the tide in thy Imperial prime; Whose glory's thine till Glory sleeps forgot With her ancestral phantoms, Pride and Time.
HENRY NEWBOLT
Preface
The first and one of the greatest difficulties to confront a writer who attempts any sort of description of a place or people is almost sure to be the answer to the question, How much must be left out? In the present case the problem has reappeared in every chapter, for Devon is 'a fair province,' as Prince says in his 'Worthies of Devon,' and 'the happy parent of ... a noble offspring.'
My position is that of a person who has been bidden to take from a great heap of precious stones as many as are needed to make one chain; for however grasping that person may be, and however long the chain may be made, when all the stones have been chosen, the heap will look almost as great and delightful as before: only a few of the largest and brightest jewels will be gone.
The fact that I have been able to take only a small handful from the vast hoard that constitutes the history of Devon will explain, I hope, the many omissions that must strike every reader who has any knowledge of the county--omissions of which no one can be more conscious than myself. A separate volume might very well be written about the bit of country touched on in each chapter.
This book does not pretend to include every district. I have merely passed through a great part of the county, stopping here at an old church with interesting monuments, there at a small town whose share in local history--in some instances, in the country's history--is apt to be forgotten, or at a manor-house which should be remembered for its association with one of the many 'worthies' who, as Prince says--with the true impartiality of a West-countryman in regard to his own county--form 'an illustrious troop of heroes, as no other county in the kingdom, no other kingdom (in so small a tract) in Europe, in all respects, is able to match, much less excel.'
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Devon, Its Moorlands, Streams and Coasts
- 2: Commend the worke and let it goe
- 3: Devon, Its Moorlands, Streams and Coasts
- 4: To all West Countrymen she is a Mother City
- 5: A few years later they again besieged Exeter
- 6: And a frightful battle was fought at Pinhoe
- 7: ' but Bishop Quivil broke down their inner walls
- 8: Three weeks later Henry VII entered Exeter with Warbeck
- 9: And the old miner rises exultant
- 10: Guilds had long flourished in Exeter
- 11: And here Princess Henrietta was born
- 12: And hazy blue distances of Exmoor
- 13: Seven miles to the south is Tiverton
- 14: John Greenway was a rich wool merchant of Tiverton
- 15: And Devonshire kerseys called dozens
- 16: A curious account exists of the fire in 1598 'when
- 17: With power to open locks or unshoe horses
- 18: And his father was rector of Bickleigh
- 19: Carew once wheedled a gentleman
- 20: Sampford Peverell is a small place
- 21: Bradninch lies a short distance to the west of Plymtree
- 22: Major Harnage and Lieutenant Reynell
- 23: Sir Coplestone and other gentlemen composed an address
- 24: The Creedy will have turned to a surging
- 25: To the great and natural indignation of Crediton
- 26: ' This ended all the trouble in Crediton
- 27: ' Mr Buller lived to marry Rebecca
- 28: Topsham stands at the head of the estuary
- 29: But the steeridge not being above four foot high
- 30: Just beyond Topsham the little river Clyst joins the Exe
- 31: Bearing slightly westwards till it reaches Honiton
- 32: A great Roman road passes by Honiton
- 33: And again the reapers bowed and waved
- 34: The traveller will find himself close to ruined Ottery Mohun
- 35: ' Sir Gawen was arrested a few days later
- 36: Bishop Grandisson found an early English church
- 37: Many incidents befell Fairfax and his troops at Ottery
- 38: But it is more interesting to cross the water at Otterton
- 39: But Sir Walter's father settled at Budleigh
- 40: ' He and Spenser were very congenial companions
- 41: The greatest of their number was a certain Jack Rattenbury
- 42: Supposed to be one of the early Vicars of Axmouth
- 43: Colcombe suffered much in the Civil War
- 44: And we their Widdowes are undone
- 45: Who appear out of the mists of antiquity
- 46: To the uninitiated is Grimspound
- 47: Masses of granite crown the ridge
- 48: Adjourned to one of the stannary towns
- 49: Besides being Lord Warden of the Stannaries
- 50: But Widdecombe has more solid claims to consideration
- 51: About fifteen miles from Widdecombe
- 52: To the amazement of Lydford people
- 53: Might be found sheltering itself under the Dartmoor Tors
- 54: After a few miles it is joined by the Wallabrook
- 55: Drewsteignton is a large village
- 56: At Fingle Bridge four winding valleys meet
- 57: Whitstone certainly deserves the name
- 58: And had left Mr Snowden still entertaining a fellow guest
- 59: Just beyond is the bridge below Dunsford
- 60: Canonteign House was garrisoned for the King
- 61: Near Chudleigh is Ugbrooke Park
- 62: Lord Clifford is wearing a crimson robe
- 63: It is unnecessary to dwell on the fact that Teignmouth
- 64: Who basely burn'd poor Tinmouth town
- 65: Who used Torbay as an anchorage
- 66: And his name Sir Arthur Champernowne
- 67: About midway between Haccombe and Torquay
- 68: The adventures of a native of Paignton a certain Will Adams
- 69: Insomuch that it prov'd a very pleasant Day
- 70: You're welcome to Brixham Quay
- 71: Formerly Speaker of the House of Commons
- 72: I hear the Broadstones a crying
- 73: Then curving round in Holne Chase
- 74: By far the most interesting building here is Buckfast Abbey
- 75: Is unnoticed by anyone but Herrick
- 76: The traveller comes to Rattery
- 77: The Champernownes of Dartington were
- 78: And this place shall be called Totnes
- 79: 'The river leaves Totnes in broad
- 80: Of a hundred and twenty tunnes
- 81: Who hated and calumniated Drake
- 82: 'In 1470 Dartmouth was a step in the retreat of Warwick
- 83: With forty men shall lie in Townstall church
- 84: For throwing down a pillory in Dodbrooke
- 85: ' It is paid cheerfully by other counties
- 86: Lies the small village of Portlemouth
- 87: And was not altogether innocent of wreckers
- 88: Having proceeded to Thurlestone
- 89: White witch of Malborough and West Alvington
- 90: Mr Cary's from Dartmouth to Exmouth
- 91: ' There were also moments when Plymouth was the victim
- 92: Neither Stonehouse nor Devonport has any history
- 93: ' Sutton was given by Henry I to Reginald de Valletort
- 94: Made by Reginald de Valletort to Plympton Priory
- 95: ' Pilchards were a very important item
- 96: Which nothing dismayed our generall
- 97: Though he was born near Tavistock
- 98: And so carried him to his pinnace
- 99: Captain Drake received them courteously
- 100: It is called 'Sir Francis Drake
- 101: And were afterwards obliged to stop at Plymouth
- 102: When Hopton concentrated all his forces upon the town
- 103: Turned their backs on Plymouth
- 104: Such was the average Plymouth day
- 105: Saltram is in the parish of Plympton St Mary
- 106: On the third are the words Dobunii Fabri fili Enabarri
- 107: Tavistock was a Benedictine monastery
- 108: ' set out again with his bales towards Geneva
- 109: But Peeke did not go with them
- 110: For 'fourteen Spanish Muskateers
- 111: 'Darst thou then quoth Duke of Medyna
- 112: Fitzford House is close to Tavistock
- 113: George Strangwidge still was lodged in my heart
- 114: Tavistock seems to have maintained an open mind
- 115: A stream runs through them to join the Tavy
- 116: Mary Tavy has not the unusual attractiveness of Peter Tavy
- 117: As a valley Tavy Cleave is very beautiful
- 118: Where Torridge joins her sister Taw
- 119: And a year later was buried in Bideford Churchyard
- 120: Both Devon and Cornwall claim this eminent family
- 121: Sir Bevil met his death at Lansdowne
- 122: Bideford suffered very little from the Civil War
- 123: At this check the Torridge runs due east till
- 124: Turning westwards along the coast
- 125: Kingsley and Dickens have written descriptions that
- 126: A little to the south of Clovelly
- 127: Four miles south east of the headland lies Hartland town
- 128: 'Now to complete this shipwreck
- 129: 'Retracing the way to Northam Burrows
- 130: St Brannock for the ancient name was Brannockstown
- 131: The infamous Tooker very hurriedly concocted a petition
- 132: Fairfax himself marched to Barnstaple
- 133: Tawstock Court was once the property of the Earls of Bath
- 134: Lord Hopton had used as a powder magazine
- 135: For over three centuries Stevenstone was owned by the Rolles
- 136: The Independents under Lambert
- 137: And begged for burial at his hands in Swymbridge churchyard
- 138: The parish clerk of Swymbridge
- 139: Charles II was proclaimed King in South Molton
- 140: 'to whom your royal highness alludes is Count Fersen
- 141: But a pier was built by one of the Bourchiers
- 142: Leading inland from Ilfracombe are 'lovely combes
- 143: Of whom the De Moriscoes were the most celebrated
- 144: Some attempted to land on Lundy
- 145: And Sir Beavis Bulmer followed with considerable success
- 146: Prince calls Sir Arthur Chichester
- 147: The thought of Sir Robert Chichester
- 148: The Wichehalses had not a Dutch origin
- 149: And local tradition has it that the Babbs
- 150: Lynmouth consists of a tiny quay
- 151: Countisbury Camp is not far from Oldbarrow
- 152: Malmsmead Bridge crosses over the Badgeworthy Water
- 153: Lorna Doone and Jan Ridd were married
- 154: The history of the Longstone is unknown
- 155: At an inquest lately held at or near South Molton
- 156: Besides the wild deer on Exmoor
- 157: The design against Pouldrum house was this
- 158: The heraldic chimneypiece is high and very elaborate
- 159: 'Sir Philip and Sir Peter Courtenay
- 160: Bishop Courtenay was translated to Canterbury
- 161: And they were all in crimson Sattin
- 162: Soon after the Chamberlain rebuked highly his Father
- 163: The Cripple of Cornwall sirnamed was he
- 164: 'Anon the Lord Courtney he spies in the street
- 165: I do not know if Berry Pomeroy is said to be haunted
- 166: And one pound of wax and three capons
- 167: The Lord Lieutenant of the county
- 168: Colonel Seymour gave up the Governorship of Dartmouth
- 169: Sir Edward Seymour died in 1659
- 170: Stretching the whole width of one wall
- 171: And the gleaming waters of the West Okement
- 172: 'About thirteen miles south west of Okehampton
- 173: From whom it passed in marriage to Trevage
- 174: Did not greatly appreciate Tremayne
- 175: 'Cecil had a high opinion of Tremayne
- 176: Who brought Sydenham to the Tremaynes
- 177: Richard Walerond is to make two suits yearly
- 178: Migrated from Stowford in Dolton near Torrington
- 179: ' John Northcote was Sheriff just at this time
- 180: ' Northcote was slightly connected with the Strodes
- 181: DARTMOOR Preservation Association's Transactions
- 182: Annals of the Ancient Royal Forest of Exmoor
- 183: 153American prisoners at Princetown
- 184: 175Charm for staunching of blood
- 185: Devon, Its Moorlands, Streams and Coasts
- 186: 150Edward the Confessor in Exeter
- 187: Devon, Its Moorlands, Streams and Coasts
- 188: 244Izacke's description of Exeter
- 189: 265Ogham inscription at Tavistock
- 190: 64Silver mines at Combe Martin
- 191: Devon, Its Moorlands, Streams and Coasts
- 192: 268Witches' Stone near Honiton
