AN ENGLISHMAN'S TRAVELS IN AMERICA:
His Observations Of Life and Manners in the Free and Slave States.
1857
BY J. BENWELL.
PREFACE.
Personal narrative and adventure has, of late years, become so interesting a subject in the mind of the British public, that the author feels he is not called upon to apologize for the production of the following pages.
It was his almost unremitting practice, during the four years he resided on the North American continent, to keep a record of what he considered of interest around him; not with a view to publishing the matter thus collected, for this was far from his thoughts at the time, but through a long contracted habit of dotting down transpiring events, for the future amusement, combined, perhaps, with instruction, of himself and friends. It therefore became necessary, to fit it for publication, to collate the accumulated memoranda, and select such portions only as might be supposed to prove interesting to the general reader. In doing this he has been careful to preserve the phraseology as much as possible, with a view to give, as far as he could, something like a literal transcript of the sentiments that gave rise to the original minutes, and avoid undue addition or interpolation.
It was the wish and intention of the writer, before leaving England, to extend his travels by visiting some of the islands in the Caribbean Sea, a course which he regrets not having been able to follow, from unforeseen circumstances, which are partially related in the following pages. He laments this the more, as it would have added considerably to the interest of the work, and enabled him to enlarge upon that fertile subject, the relative position at the time of the negro race in those islands, and the demoralized condition of their fellow-countrymen, under the iniquitous system of slavery, as authorized by statute law, in the southern states of America. As it was, he was enabled to travel through the most populous parts of the states of New York and Ohio, proceeding, _via_ Cincinnati, to the Missouri country; after a brief stay at St. Louis, taking the direct southern route down the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, to New Orleans in Louisiana, passing Natchez on the way. The whole tour comprising upwards of three thousand miles.
From New Orleans he crossed an arm of the Gulf of Mexico to the Floridas, and after remaining in that territory for a considerable time, and taking part under a sense of duty in a campaign (more to scatter than annihilate), against the Seminole and Cherokee tribes of Indians, who, in conjunction with numberless fugitive slaves, from the districts a hundred miles round, were devastating the settlements, and indiscriminately butchering the inhabitants, he returned to Tallahassee, taking stage at that town to Macon in the state of Georgia, and from thence by the Greensborough Railway to Charleston in South Carolina, sailing after rather a prolonged stay, from that port to England.
Some of the incidents related in the following pages will be found to bear upon, and tend forcibly to corroborate, the miseries so patiently endured by the African race, in a vaunted land of freedom and enlightenment, whose inhabitants assert, with ridiculous tenacity, that their government and laws are based upon the principle, "That all men in the sight of God are equal," and the wrongs of whose victims have of late been so touchingly and truthfully illustrated by that eminent philanthropist, Mrs. Stowe, to the eternal shame of the upholders of the system, and the fearful incubus of guilt and culpability that will render for ever infamous, if the policy is persisted in, the nationality of America.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: An Englishman's Travels in America by John Benwell
- 2: Within a single point of the wake of one of the icebergs
- 3: And which are retailed on the voyage to the passengers
- 4: And were interspersed with rural and chateau scenery
- 5: Not excepting Liverpool itself
- 6: Declared the auction had commenced
- 7: Were sufficient to decoy the most wary
- 8: In Broadway are to be seen magnificent hotels
- 9: I pursued my way down Broadway
- 10: Amongst primeval forest shades
- 11: As in all American steam vessels
- 12: The very moment I set foot on the deck of the Narraganset
- 13: Crowded with lady passengers and beautiful children
- 14: Brought via the Erie Canal from the interior
- 15: Buffalo is a flourishing city on the border of Lake Erie
- 16: About half way up that premier thoroughfare
- 17: For some miles before we reached Niagara
- 18: Which play havoc with the steamers
- 19: Huron is but a small and uninteresting place
- 20: And moved along the skirts of the morass
- 21: After the disposition to annoy him shown by the citizens
- 22: Arising from transactions with them
- 23: In due course we reached Cleveland
- 24: We had on board eight or ten families of the Mormon sect
- 25: In reply to which the wily pedlar observed
- 26: The helmsman suddenly called out
- 27: The Indian toppled backwards down the embankment
- 28: We started on our return to Zoar
- 29: This predilection for gambling
- 30: Have hanged the culprit immediately
- 31: Which the lower orders of Americans pursued
- 32: And many citizens harassed the enemy on their own account
- 33: The miserable creature arose with difficulty
- 34: Having ascertained the spot selected for the scene
- 35: The auction being about to commence
- 36: Although the auctioneer certainly tried to prevent it
- 37: The yellow fever is also very fatal in such situations
- 38: The appearance of these gibbets
- 39: Roused the indignant feelings of the passengers
- 40: And afterwards visited the calaboose
- 41: The suburbs of New Orleans lie low
- 42: The coast about the balize is low and swampy
- 43: Large Leghorn or palmetto hats
- 44: And on some of the adjacent islands
- 45: The cayman of South America is very ferocious
- 46: He superintended the erection of his own marquee
- 47: We fortunately escaped molestation
- 48: In concert with bull frogs and other reptiles
- 49: But after parleying for a considerable time
- 50: And in a day or two I started on my return to Tallahassee
- 51: Emerge from the adjoining hammock
- 52: An advanced party of my friend's escort but
- 53: As described by one of the survivors
- 54: In traversing the sandy deserts of West Florida
- 55: A short time prior to my intended departure for Tallahassee
- 56: Escorting several couples of bloodhounds
- 57: I left that spot on horseback for Tallahassee
- 58: At Tallahassee I saw in the streets
- 59: After remaining a few days in Tallahassee
- 60: A negro approached where the overseer was standing
- 61: In my debilitated state of health
- 62: On a concerted signal from their confederates in Charleston
- 63: Is gradually undermining Protestant conformity
- 64: Quite as inexorable as the one I have before spoken of
- 65: Walking in the road instead of on the pavement
- 66: I came to the slave and general cotton place of vendue
- 67: He visited one of the plantations
- 68: Which had been enacted within the twelve months preceding
- 69: Had some of the young blood of Charleston been up
- 70: Who as is common in Charleston
- 71: As you walk the streets of Charleston
- 72: Not long after my arrival in Charleston
- 73: The majority of these idlers were impudent looking braggarts
- 74: Extracts from one of these tracts were read
- 75: The habit of prying into the business of others
- 76: Had a distinct brand on his forehead of the initials S
- 77: And the same deprecation of the slave race
- 78: At my boarding house in Charleston
- 79: Is in them loaded with hypocrisy and ingratitude
