Produced by Steve Solomon. HTML version by Al Haines.
Cascadia Gardening Series
Gardening Without Irrigation: or without much, anyway
Steve Solomon
CONTENTS
Chapter
1 Predictably Rainless Summers 2 Water-Wise Gardening Science 3 Helping Plants to Need Less Irrigation 4 Water-Wise Gardening Year-Round 5 How to Grow It with Less Irrigation: A-Z 6 My Own Garden Plan 7 The Backyard
Introduction
Starting a New Gardening Era
First, you should know why a maritime Northwest raised-bed gardener named Steve Solomon became worried about his dependence on irrigation.
I'm from Michigan. I moved to Lorane, Oregon, in April 1978 and homesteaded on 5 acres in what I thought at the time was a cool, showery green valley of liquid sunshine and rainbows. I intended to put in a big garden and grow as much of my own food as possible.
Two months later, in June, just as my garden began needing water, my so-called 15-gallon-per-minute well began to falter, yielding less and less with each passing week. By August it delivered about 3 gallons per minute. Fortunately, I wasn't faced with a completely dry well or one that had shrunk to below 1 gallon per minute, as I soon discovered many of my neighbors were cursed with. Three gallons per minute won't supply a fan nozzle or even a common impulse sprinkler, but I could still sustain my big raised-bed garden by watering all night, five or six nights a week, with a single, 2-1/2 gallon-per-minute sprinkler that I moved from place to place.
I had repeatedly read that gardening in raised beds was the most productive vegetable growing method, required the least work, and was the most water-efficient system ever known. So, without adequate irrigation, I would have concluded that food self-sufficiency on my homestead was not possible. In late September of that first year, I could still run that single sprinkler. What a relief not to have invested every last cent in land that couldn't feed us.
For many succeeding years at Lorane, I raised lots of organically grown food on densely planted raised beds, but the realities of being a country gardener continued to remind me of how tenuous my irrigation supply actually was. We country folks have to be self-reliant: I am my own sanitation department, I maintain my own 800-foot-long driveway, the septic system puts me in the sewage business. A long, long response time to my 911 call means I'm my own self-defense force. And I'm my own water department.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Gardening Without Irrigation: or without much, any
- 2: How did the early pioneers irrigate their vegetables
- 3: Some unirrigated crops were foliar fed weekly
- 4: Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades
- 5: Arid places like Baker or Sacramento
- 6: This direct relationship between particle size
- 7: And sandy loams often have a clayey
- 8: Moisture replacement by capillarity becomes significant
- 9: Ryegrasses are known to make more roots than most plants
- 10: Judiciously fertigate some vegetable species
- 11: Yet root cells must breathe oxygen
- 12: Plowpan can seem as firm as a rammed earth house
- 13: Very fine clay subsoils as well
- 14: The higher the humus level gets
- 15: Green manure crops can maintain the openness of the subsoil
- 16: Sometimes called dust mulching
- 17: And potent composts mainly improve the topsoil
- 18: The poorest foliar sprays are organic
- 19: Foot pressure restored capillarity
- 20: Presprouted seeds may be gently blended into some crumbly
- 21: So seedling transplants will tolerate considerable root loss
- 22: Quick maturing plants in high density spacings
- 23: Arugula still may reach eating size in midwinter
- 24: Compared to unirrigated Black Coco TSC
- 25: A fertigated May sowing will be exhausted by October
- 26: The plants will then grow hugely with a bit of fertigation
- 27: And Savonarch TSC for late August early September harvests
- 28: And periodically irrigate until fall
- 29: Successfully Starting Cucurbits From SeedWith cucurbits
- 30: Even without any fertigation at all
- 31: Gradually I began to appreciate kale
- 32: Kohlrabi was once grown as European fodder crop
- 33: Spacing of the seedlings depends on the amount of irrigation
- 34: Start scallions in a nursery just like overwintered onions
- 35: Fertigate every three or four weeks
- 36: Nooksack is pretty good if you like white
- 37: So as a test I sowed rutabagas on July 1
- 38: Yellow Crookneck is especially rich
- 39: Indeterminate cherry types like Sweetie
- 40: Two lines of low angle sprinklers
- 41: Over a dozen giant kohlrabi are spring sown
- 42: The pole beans in row 8 tend to prevent overspray
- 43: There's the virtually unlimited Umpqua River to draw from
- 44: A single emitter may wet a 4 foot diameter circle
- 45: Small fruited INEFFICIENT Beans
- 46: Michigan California Hamaker Weaver Publishers
