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A Handbook to Agra and the Taj Sikandra, Fatehpur-Sikri and the Neighbourhood
by E.B. Havell, ARCA.
1904
Preface
This little book is not intended for a history or archaeological treatise, but to assist those who visit, or have visited, Agra, to an intelligent understanding of one of the greatest epochs of Indian Art. In the historical part of it, I have omitted unimportant names and dates, and only attempted to give such a sketch of the personality of the greatest of the Great Moguls, and of the times in which they lived, as is necessary for an appreciation of the wonderful monuments they left behind them. India is the only part of the British Empire where art is still a living reality, a portion of the people's spiritual possessions. We, in our ignorance and affectation of superiority, make efforts to improve it with Western ideas; but, so far, have only succeeded in doing it incalculable harm. It would be wiser if we would first attempt to understand it.
Among many works to which I owe valuable information, I should name especially Erskine's translation of Babar's "Memoirs;" Muhammad Latifs "Agra, Historical and Descriptive;" and Edmund Smith's "Fatehpur-Sikri." My acknowledgments are due to Babu Abanindro Nath Tagore, Mr. A. Polwhele, Executive Engineer, Agra, and to Mr. J.H. Marshall, Director-General of the Archaeological Survey of India, for kind assistance rendered. I am particularly indebted to Messrs. Johnston and Hoffman, of Calcutta, for allowing me to make use of their valuable collection of photographs for the illustrations.
In quoting from "Bernier's Travels," I have used Constable's translation, with Messrs. A. Constable & Co.'s kind permission. To the Editor of the _Nineteenth Century and After_ I owe permission to make use of my article on "The Taj and its Designers," published in that Review, June, 1903.
CALCUTTA,
_January_, 1904.
Contents
HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION
The Great Moguls--I. Babar--Babar's Connection with Agra--II. Humayun--Interregnum: Shere Shah--III. Akbar--Akbar's Connection with Agra--IV. Jahangir--Jahangir's Connection with Agra--V. Shah Jahan--The Monuments of Shah Jahan's Reign at Agra--VI. Aurangzib--Agra and the Later Mogul Emperors--Agra in the Mutiny.
THE FORT
The Muti Masjid--The Dersane Darwaza--The Diwan-i-am--Jahangir's Cistern--The Tomb of Mr. Colvin--The Inner Mina Bazar--The Chitore Gates--The Hindu Temple--The Machhi Bhawan--The Najina Masjid--The Diwan-i-Khas--Jahangir's Throne--The Baths--The Samman Burj--The Khas Mahal--The Underground Chambers--The Anguri Bagh--Shish Mahal--The "Somnath" Gates--The Jahangiri Mahal--The Sahmgarh.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Handbook to Agra and the Taj by E. B. Havell
- 2: Plan of the PalacesFatehpur Sikri
- 3: Who straightway attacked Andijan
- 4: Recovered his kingdom of Farghana
- 5: The Khans were completely defeated by Shaibani
- 6: The same day Chikmak Padshahi left Agra
- 7: About three years after the battle of Kanauj
- 8: Like Babar under similar circumstances
- 9: The Islamite prayers were abolished
- 10: And Jahangir consulted her in all important affairs of state
- 11: She was buried by her husband's side at Shahdara
- 12: Recognizing no one as king but Aurangzib
- 13: In the splendour of the mikdembers
- 14: Aurangzib ruled with a firm hand
- 15: Nearly opposite to the railway station and the Jami Masjid
- 16: Nearly opposite to the Muti Masjid
- 17: In which are assembled the whole body of omrahs nobles
- 18: They form the principal entrance to the Machhi Bhawan
- 19: One of white marble on the side facing the Machhi Bhawan
- 20: This part of the zanana forms the east
- 21: On the north side of the Anguri Bagh
- 22: The dados were decorated with gesso work on a gold ground
- 23: The Salimgarh at Delhi is named after the son of Shere Shah
- 24: Mumtaz Mahal the Crown of the Palace
- 25: Amounted to nearly 185 lakhs of rupees
- 26: So the Taj will always find detractors
- 27: Where Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan
- 28: One has a splendid view of the Taj
- 29: Itmad ud daulah's TombThe tomb of Itmad ud daulah
- 30: A little beyond the Chini ka Rauza
- 31: Named Kwajeh seh yaran Kwajeh three friends
- 32: Not far from Ladli Begam's garden is the Kandahari Bagh
- 33: At a little distance from the Kanch Mahal
- 34: Regarding the village of Sikri
- 35: Some distance beyond the Naubat Khana
- 36: A covered passage connected the house with the Kwabgah
- 37: Adjoining the Ankh Michauli are the remains of a long
- 38: Point out as the Annunciation
- 39: Rajah Birbal was a Brahman minstrel
- 40: And a covered way connected it with Jodh Bai's palace
- 41: By which Akbar entered the mosque from the palace
- 42: The mosque proper contains three chapels
- 43: The Houses of Abul Fazl and Faizi
- 44: About fourteen miles from Govardhan
- 45: Inferring that Bernier meant this
- 46: She might have been known as the Princess of Jodhpur
