A HOLIDAY IN THE HAPPY VALLEY WITH PEN AND PENCIL
BY
T. R. SWINBURNE
MAJOR (LATE) R.M.A.
WITH 24 COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS
1907
[ILLUSTRATION: THE JHELUM AT SRINAGAR]
"_Over the great windy waters, and over the clear crested summits, Unto the sea and the sky, and unto the perfecter earth, Come, let us go_!"
I DEDICATE THIS BOOK
TO
"JANE"
PREFACE
I observe that it is customary to begin a book by an Introduction, Preface, or Foreword. In the good old days of the eighteenth century this generally took the form of a burst of grovelling adoration aimed at some most noble or otherwise highly important person. This fulsome fawning on the great was later changed into propitiation of the British public, and unknown authors revelled in excuses for publishing their earlier efforts.
But now that every one has written a book, or is about to do so, I feel that my apologies are rather due to the public for not having rushed into print before. I have really spared it because I had nothing in particular to write about, and I confess I am somewhat doubtful as to whether I am even now justified in invoking the kind offices of a publisher with a view to bringing forth this literary mouse in due form!
No admiring (if partial) relatives have hung upon my lips as I read them my journal, imploring me with tears in their eyes to waste not an instant, but give to a longing world this literary treasure. I have no illusions as regards my literary powers, and I do not imagine that I shall depose the gifted author of _Eoethen_ from his pride of place.
I claim, however, the merit of truth. The journal was written day by day, and the sketches were all done on the spot; and if this account--bald and inadequate as I know it to be--of a very happy time spent in rambling among some of the finest scenery of this lovely earth, may induce any one to betake himself to Kashmir, he will achieve something worth living for, and I shall not have spilt ink in vain.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I. INTRODUCTORY
II. THE VOYAGE OUT
III. KARACHI TO ABBOTABAD
IV. ABBOTABAD TO SRINAGAR
V. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SRINAGAR
VI. OUR FIRST CAMP
VII. BACK TO SRINAGAR
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Holiday in the Happy Valley with Pen and Pencil
- 2: And the visitor should arrange
- 3: But if Gulmarg does not appeal to him
- 4: They can easily be sold on leaving Kashmir for
- 5: Will bring the wearer to Srinagar
- 6: And this may be refunded on leaving the country
- 7: We sat shivering in our unwarmed compartment unwarmed
- 8: This is particularly the case in Venice
- 9: Trieste itself is rather an engaging town
- 10: The gambling dens have disappeared
- 11: He is evidently bound for Aden
- 12: And the thing in charge called a Baboo
- 13: 1 The Devon Place Hotel may be the best in Karachi
- 14: All Sahib give cloth to Servant on going to Cashmir
- 15: Than those of the Mogul dynasty
- 16: Opposite the entrance rise the walls of the Palace of Akbar
- 17: We stayed a couple of days at Pindi
- 18: And two ekkas to carry the heavy baggage
- 19: Knowing that only ten passes were to be given for Astor
- 20: At Manserah we met Hill and Hunt
- 21: The liberated tonga overtook us
- 22: Ghari Habibullah is not at all a cheerful spot
- 23: And then the old Sikh fort of Musafferabad
- 24: Although we had no serious difficulty before reaching Ghari
- 25: Reaching Chakhoti about four o'clock
- 26: Was crawling along the opposite face of the nullah
- 27: And whose tonga was checked also at the big slip
- 28: The dak bungalow of Baramula is
- 29: About half way between Baramula and Srinagar
- 30: Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir
- 31: Nedou has let to us as a sitting room
- 32: Srinagar has no architecture in particular
- 33: In his Sand Buried Cities of Kotan
- 34: A restless confusion of dragons from Leh
- 35: The local bootmaker or chaplie wallah appeared
- 36: Let me describe a typical boarded dounga
- 37: Jane is getting along remarkably well with her Hindustani
- 38: We were striking out for Bandipur
- 39: He was pensively sitting on a big sun warmed boulder
- 40: Followed up the nullah which lay to our right
- 41: The shikari being in front with my rifle over his shoulder
- 42: So this time they found a serow a somewhat scarce beast
- 43: Of which the shikari held out high hope
- 44: Carefully digging little holes with our khudsticks
- 45: Heartily consigning the shikari
- 46: The Leh scheme thus having come to naught
- 47: Son in law to the Admiral Satarah
- 48: Asna the best shikari in Kashmir
- 49: The Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir
- 50: We prepared to cross the famous Dal Lake to the Nishat Bagh
- 51: Made for Jehangir the Mogul standing by the water's edge
- 52: The good Tommy Moore did not know this
- 53: Or a blush from the modest Kashmiri
- 54: An interview with the Admiral showed me that the Wular
- 55: The Wular lay like a burnished mirror
- 56: But that as we had on chaplies and not grass shoes
- 57: The breast and underparts also scarlet
- 58: My shikari is a fiend in human shape
- 59: And completed the ascent of the pass over into the Lolab
- 60: On Thursday we left Lalpura and marched to Kulgam
- 61: By the six enraged burghers of Kulgam
- 62: For here died the chota murghi
- 63: To be that rascal the Lord High Admiral Satarah
- 64: Or at that most hospitable hub of Srinagar
- 65: For one immortal Squash put hundreds of squashes
- 66: With a grass slipper in pursuit of flies
- 67: I got four more coolies from a village
- 68: The demand made upon a village for coolies is not
- 69: And then going up the Lidar Valley
- 70: Yesterday afternoon we left Bejbehara
- 71: And closer on our left roared the Lidar
- 72: Pahlgam stands some 2000 feet above Srinagar
- 73: We were still close to some of the scattered huts of Pahlgam
- 74: Let us give the Kashmiri his due
- 75: Towards the peaks which rise behind Pahlgam
- 76: A series of grassy uplands brought us close to Lidarwat
- 77: Before we reached the solid ice of the great glacier
- 78: And came on into Pahlgam this forenoon
- 79: Yesterday we left Sellar and marched to Bejbehara
- 80: And our thoughts turned to Gulmarg
- 81: Owing to a confusion between Gunderbal the port
- 82: We fancied that Tronkol was ours
- 83: Snow streaked divided the Chittagul Nullah from Tronkol
- 84: Crossing the river below Wangat
- 85: And reached them and Palhallan at sunset
- 86: Where perches the village of Babamarishi
- 87: And an insatiable devourer of errant golf balls
- 88: The golf at Gulmarg is very good
- 89: Society in Gulmarg is particularly cheery
- 90: And makes an excellent breakfast as prearranged by Sabz Ali
- 91: And how can I possibly paint a picture without a campanile
- 92: He cannot have known of Kashmir
- 93: While Itylus became a pheasant
- 94: Ascend Apharwat by the funicular railway
- 95: The environs of Srinagar are charming
- 96: The bazaar butter became very bad
- 97: The road from the bazaar to the club was all but impassable
- 98: Everybody trying to leave Gulmarg at once
- 99: From Tangmarg to the dak bungalow at Margam
- 100: Who reported the doungas moored below Parana Chaum
- 101: Cut above Srinagar to carry off the flood water
- 102: Were as valuable to Noah as Sabz Ali is to us
- 103: Shot athwart the eddying flood
- 104: This morning we crossed the Wular
- 105: While we ourselves set forward in our boats to Dubgam
- 106: On Friday morning we left Harwan
- 107: Drogmulla was so fascinating a spot
- 108: Walter and I set forth at daylight for Tregam
- 109: The beaters redoubled their shouts
- 110: As the Colonel got a fine bear below Gulmarg
- 111: Which finally brought us to Kitardaji
- 112: I again sent for the Tehsildhar
- 113: The blackbird scrambled into the leading ekka
- 114: From Murree to Pindi having halted here for the night
- 115: With our hand luggage and bedding all of a heap
- 116: Sallied forth to view the Kutab
- 117: Who saw the famous throne some twenty years before Tavernier
- 118: Agra we liked as much as we disliked Delhi
- 119: I was not disappointed in the Taj
- 120: Jaipur was built upon a regular and prearranged plan
- 121: 3 A slight attack of fever prevented me from going to Amber
- 122: Jaipur is celebrated for its enamelling on gold
- 123: We set out on the fifty mile run to Udaipur
- 124: The Chondawat chief was already in Ontala
- 125: Has not been allowed to trespass in Udaipur
- 126: Traversing the whole length of the Pichola
- 127: Riding in wide petticoats on prancing steeds
- 128: High in his palace the Maharana rules in feudal state
- 129: A State elephant appeared by request
- 130: We can trace the losses of Mewar
- 131: Joined his brother in law against Shabudin
- 132: His uncle Bheemsi had married Padmani
- 133: Now Kurnavati had bound Hamayoun
- 134: When Jeimul fell at the Gate of the Sun
- 135: When all was lost to Chitor save honour
- 136: We saw the last of our faithful and indispensable Sabz Ali
- 137: Small game between the above dates
- 138: Doubtless the Kashmiri character
- 139: Only one species is peculiar to Kashmir
- 140: Therefore I append a precis of ours
- 141: Until Aurungzeb removed the seat of government to Delhi
- 142: Bandipur is not marked on the Ordnance Map
- 143: Lying on the right bank of the Kishenganga
- 144: Theise pissmyres ben grete as houndes
- 145: Which it joins below Islamabad
- 146: Principally noted now for its Pampur roti or bread
