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ICE-CAVES OF FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND.
A NARRATIVE OF SUBTERRANEAN EXPLORATION.
BY THE REV. G.F. BROWNE, M.A.
FELLOW AND ASSISTANT TUTOR OF ST. CATHARINE'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE; MEMBER OF THE ALPINE CLUB.
1865.
PREFACE.
The existence of natural ice-caves at depths varying from 50 to 200 feet below the surface of the earth, unconnected with glaciers or snow mountains, and in latitudes and at altitudes where ice could not under ordinary circumstances be supposed to exist, has attracted some attention on the Continent; but little or nothing seems to be practically known in England on the subject. These caves are so singular, and many of them so well repay inspection, that a description of the twelve which I have visited can scarcely, as it seems to me, be considered an uncalled-for addition to the numerous books of travel which are constantly appearing. In order to prevent my narrative from being a mere dry record of natural phenomena, I have interspersed it with such incidents of travel as may be interesting in themselves or useful to those who are inclined to follow my steps. I have also given, from various sources, accounts of similar caves in different parts of the world.
A pamphlet on _Glacieres Naturelles_ by M. Thury, of Geneva, of the existence of which I was not aware when I commenced my explorations, has been of great service to me. M. Thury had only visited three glacieres when he published his pamphlet in 1861, but the observations he records are very valuable. He had attempted to visit a fourth, when, unfortunately, the want of a ladder of sufficient length stopped him.
I was allowed to read Papers before the British Association at Bath (1864), in the Chemical Section, on the prismatic formation of the ice in these caves, and in the Geological Section, on their general character and the possible causes of their existence.
It is necessary to say, with regard to the sections given in this book, that, while the proportions of the masses of ice are in accordance with measurements taken on the spot, the interior height of many of the caves, and the curves of the roof and sides, are put in with a free hand, some of them from memory. And of the measurements, too, it is only fair to say that they were taken for the most part under very unfavourable circumstances, in dark caves lighted by one, or sometimes by two candles, with a temperature varying from slightly above to slightly below the freezing-point, and with no surer foot-hold than that afforded by slippery slopes of ice and chaotic blocks of stone. In all cases, errors are due to want of skill, not of honesty; and I hope that they do not generally lie on the side of exaggeration.
CAMBRIDGE: _June_ 1865.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Ice-Caves of France and Switzerland by Browne
- 2: Page the glaciere of la genolliere
- 3: To regale our parched friends at Arzier
- 4: La Genolliere is the montagne
- 5: From Arzier to the Chalet of La Genolliere
- 6: And passed it into the fissures
- 7: The prism could be pushed out entire
- 8: Instead of the rocks of La Genolliere
- 9: Whereas those which are true stalagmites
- 10: The surface of the stalagmite was wet
- 11: Respecting the glaciere ensued
- 12: For on the Chalet of Les Biolles
- 13: Where the poste for Gimel may be caught
- 14: Boucqueville a fortnight later
- 15: Illustration ENTRANCE TO THE GLACIERE OF S
- 16: The horizontal arrangement of the prisms
- 17: And here the prismatic structure was not apparent to the eye
- 18: He hunted up a cousin in Marchissy
- 19: To search for Henri Renaud in the village of S
- 20: Unlike the surface of ordinary glaciers
- 21: And Mignot thrust his legs through
- 22: Through the interstices of the blocks of stone
- 23: Is still called Boulaire from legendary times
- 24: Liberius with this neighbourhood
- 25: Mignot was quite motherly in his advice and his cautions
- 26: Mignot let out a little blouse
- 27: The fissure was partially open to the cave
- 28: Septembre 2 Trois journees pour couper
- 29: Mignot had previously told me that he got four francs
- 30: Hassenfratz quotes Caesar's own words the town of Vesoul
- 31: The vineyards of Arbois must always be interesting
- 32: And known as les Fols de Chissey
- 33: The Sequani proceeded against him of their own accord
- 34: And called it Bisantium and Chrysopolis
- 35: This glaciere may be called a historical glaciere
- 36: The Chartreuse at which we were to leave our carriage
- 37: And set off on foot for the glaciere
- 38: On the edges of a narrow fissure
- 39: And by this means columns might
- 40: And probably Madame Briot made some mistake
- 41: But is now known as Trappistine
- 42: The soup served was by courtesy called soupe maigre
- 43: Kuehmelkers a term more opprobrious than bouviers
- 44: The town of Besancon seems to spend its Sunday in fishing
- 45: On the summit of the Mont Chaudane
- 46: 45 The Glaciere of Vaise had proved
- 47: Et alors le dit Doyen apercut un vermisseau roule en spirale
- 48: Entre les vallees de Travers et de la Brevine
- 49: And we caught the landlady and became peremptory
- 50: We passed a collection of very neat chalets
- 51: Where the final shelf was reached
- 52: Was the entrance to the glaciere
- 53: We found the dimensions of the bottom of the pit
- 54: We passed down at length through the low archway
- 55: G marks the place of a free stalagmite of ice
- 56: And formed domes of very regular shape
- 57: In common with a great part of Ebel
- 58: The glaciere and neigiere of arc sous cicon
- 59: Looked exceedingly tempting as seen from Pontarlier
- 60: At a very short distance below the weir
- 61: And bring the carriage to meet us at Ouhans
- 62: We ordered an omelette and some cheese
- 63: A word evidently formed on the same principle as glaciere
- 64: Had monsieur seen the source of the Loue
- 65: Because the Weissenstein stood overhead so engagingly
- 66: Gonten was apparently the nearest station to Merligen
- 67: Overwhelmed the village of Merligen
- 68: When we were to turn up the Juestisthal
- 69: Of horizontal layers of crumbling shale
- 70: Christian announced that we had reached the cave
- 71: 61 The details of this central cluster of icicles
- 72: The fall in the Upper Glaciere of the Pre de S
- 73: And terminated in a level sea of ice
- 74: Soret began to descend to the glaciere itself
- 75: And making for the peak of the Ralligflue
- 76: And when the winding Kanderthal is lost
- 77: Who visited the Schafloch in September 1860
- 78: The only plan was to go to Annecy
- 79: Or on which side of the Mont Parmelan they lay
- 80: When I found that since Annecy has become French
- 81: Almost as soon as I left Villaz
- 82: And the Mairie seemed especially difficult to find
- 83: Rosset backing him up and putting in the most telling parts
- 84: The charcoal is made by Italians
- 85: She brought out a pot of caille
- 86: We cut a few steps about the upper edge of this moulin
- 87: I found that it split into prisms very readily
- 88: Down to the edge of the moulin
- 89: Last winter 1864 5 there was 26 feet of snow on the Jura
- 90: The maire told us that he had found the glaciere
- 91: If only one could get at it without a tourneau
- 92: Down the sloping floor of the fissure
- 93: The original entrance to the fissure
- 94: That I left Rosset with the candle
- 95: I offered Rosset the promised back
- 96: ' The first course was bread and kirsch
- 97: And was told that two pensionnaires lived in this room
- 98: The other pensionnaire came in
- 99: The Glaciere of the Valley of Reposoir
- 100: Whence its local name of La grand' Cave de Montarquis
- 101: And slept at the Chartreuse in the Valley of Reposoir
- 102: Bourrit merely meant by glaciere
- 103: There remained one glaciere on M
- 104: The true Mount Pilate lies between Vienne and Lyons
- 105: It claims to be not Dea Vocontiorum only
- 106: Restored the separate bishopric
- 107: For she declined to furnish soup without garlic and fat
- 108: For he was a keeper of silkworms
- 109: This was evidently the Foire de Fondeurle
- 110: But Liotir objected that he was meanwhile dying of hunger
- 111: When once we got away from the chalet
- 112: Shaped like the ordinary ice columns of the glacieres
- 113: Whereas the cantiniere charged a franc
- 114: The effect of the wine on Liotir was peculiar
- 115: The first Dauphins bore a castle
- 116: The rocks of the Carpathians abound in salts
- 117: Which he suspected to be the foot of Sheitan himself
- 118: But Olafsen believed that the name merely meant black hole
- 119: Or covered with broad and connected icicles
- 120: The Gypsum Cave of Illetzkaya Zastchita
- 121: And describes this gypseous hillock
- 122: This cavern is quite different from lava tunnels
- 123: When relieved from the heat due to radiation
- 124: Taschenbuch fuer die gesammte Mineralogie
- 125: 122 On the Brandstein in Styria
- 126: The mountain is called Pleschiwetz
- 127: The party afterwards climbed up the precipitous basalt
- 128: For six years head of the Gymnasium of Leitmeritz
- 129: 'natural ice houses' are mentioned
- 130: Bourrit meant only a locality where ice is to be found
- 131: Entirely sheltered from the sun by lava rocks
- 132: Near the Casa Inglese on Mount Etna
- 133: 157 One occurs near the mines of Lurgikan
- 134: 170 in addition to the mines on the Sauberg mentioned above
- 135: Down a pit 30 fathoms wide and 24 deep
- 136: Footnote 123 Naturwunder des Oesterr
- 137: Under the heading Meteorologische Beobachtungen
- 138: Utrum appareant Daemunculi seu pygmaei
- 139: And especially above the roof of the grotto
- 140: Des Boz melted some of the ice
- 141: Oudot's observations in degrees of Reaumur
- 142: And the thermometer gave 38 deg
- 143: Lucerne the caves of Hergiswyl
- 144: That the heavy cool air descends from the fissures
- 145: 192 Deluc had not seen any glaciere
- 146: The question of ice in summer where thaw prevails in winter
- 147: Footnote 185 Recherches sur la Chaleur
- 148: And disposed in hexagonal prisms
- 149: From which the account in Poggendorff is taken
- 150: And in another he found quadrilateral and octahedral prisms
- 151: Footnote 202 Branch Physique
- 152: In one of these adits a gallery called Cruzada
- 153: FOOTNOTES Footnote 211 Bischof
- 154: Thury calculates a decrease of 1 deg
- 155: And that of the glaciere 19 deg
