IMPRESSIONS OF SOUTH AFRICA
BY
JAMES BRYCE
AUTHOR OF "THE HOLY ROMAN EMPIRE," "TRANSCAUCASIA AND ARARAT," "THE AMERICAN COMMONWEALTH," ETC.
_With Three Maps._
THIRD EDITION, REVISED THROUGHOUT
WITH A NEW PREFATORY CHAPTER, AND WITH THE TRANSVAAL CONVENTIONS OF 1881 AND 1884
London MACMILLAN AND CO., Limited 1899
_All rights reserved_
RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY.
_First Edition, 8vo. November 1897_
_Reprinted, November 1897_
_Second Edition, January 1898_
_Third Edition, Crown 8vo. November 1899_
_Reprinted, December 1899_
TO
THE COMPANION OF MY JOURNEY
PREFATORY CHAPTER
This new edition has been carefully revised throughout, and, as far as possible, brought up to date by noting, in their proper places, the chief events of importance that have occurred since the book first appeared. In the historical chapters, however, and in those which deal with recent politics, no changes have been made save such as were needed for the correction of one or two slight errors of fact, and for the mention of new facts, later in date than the first edition. I have left the statements of my own views exactly as they were first written, even where I thought that the form of a statement might be verbally improved, not only because I still adhere to those views, but also because I desire it to be clearly understood that they were formed and expressed before the events of the last few months, and without any reference to the controversies of the moment.
When the first edition of the book was published (at the end of 1897) there was strong reason to believe as well as to hope that a race conflict in South Africa would be avoided, and that the political problems it presents, acute as they had become early in 1896, would be solved in a peaceable way. To this belief and hope I gave expression in the concluding chapter of the book, indicating "tact, coolness and patience, above all, patience," as the qualities needed to attain that result which all friends of the country must unite in desiring.
Now, however, (October 1899), Britain and her South African Colonies and territories find themselves at war with the South African Republic and the Orange Free State. A new chapter is opened in the history of the country which completely alters the situation, and must necessarily leave things very different from what it found them. Readers of this new edition may reasonably expect to find in it some account of the events which have within the last two years led up to this catastrophe, or at any rate some estimate of that conduct of affairs by the three governments concerned which has brought about a result all three ought to have sought to avert.
There are, however, conclusive reasons against attempting to continue down to the outbreak of the war (October 11th) the historical sketch given in Chapters II to XII. The materials for the historian are still scanty and imperfect, leaving him with data scarcely sufficient for judging the intention and motives with which some things were done. Round the acts and words of the representatives of the three governments concerned, there rages such a storm of controversy, that whoever places a particular construction upon those acts and words must need support his construction by citations from documents and arguments based on those citations. To do this would need a space much larger than I can command. The most serious difficulty, however, is that when events are close to us and excite strong feelings, men distrust the impartiality of a historian even when he does his best to be impartial. I shall not, therefore, attempt to write a history of the last two fateful years, but content myself first, with calling the reader's attention to a few salient facts that have occurred since 1896, and to some aspects of the case which have been little considered in England; and secondly, with describing as clearly and estimating as cautiously as I can, the forces that have worked during those years with such swift and deadly effect.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Impressions of South Africa by Bryce
- 2: This displeasure culminated when the Transvaal Government
- 3: Of the Transvaal itself I need say the less
- 4: The Transvaal is believed to have suggested
- 5: But these measures of course incensed the Uitlanders
- 6: Whether the suzerainty over the Transvaal State
- 7: They were grievances under which
- 8: If the Transvaal should prove intractable
- 9: By her forbearance towards the Transvaal
- 10: How their country was annexed in 1877
- 11: At Bloemfontein neither condition existed
- 12: From the language of the ultimatum
- 13: Became convinced that Britain meant to crush the Transvaal
- 14: The Dutch in the Cape had been loyal till December 1895
- 15: It was haste which annexed the Transvaal in 1877
- 16: Reconcilement and fusion have now
- 17: Orographical map of south africa
- 18: Impressions of South Africa by Bryce
- 19: Impressions of South Africa by Bryce
- 20: Impressions of South Africa by Bryce
- 21: Impressions of South Africa by Bryce
- 22: German South West 2
- 23: 38
- 24: Which is only two hundred miles from the Zambesi
- 25: South Africa is an interesting
- 26: Past Durban and Delagoa Bay and Beira
- 27: The rocks of the Karroo region are more recent
- 28: The western part of Bechuanaland
- 29: Like the Orange River or the Limpopo
- 30: Though liable to be confounded with malarial fevers
- 31: Beira itself has the benefit of a strong sea breeze
- 32: There was a wonderful profusion of antelopes
- 33: And is not unfrequent in Matabililand and Mashonaland
- 34: And a larger number in the Kalahari Desert
- 35: The general aspect of the vegetation on the Karroo
- 36: Thorny mimosas they are really acacias
- 37: Which I found growing in a valley of Manicaland
- 38: The cluster pine Pinus Pinaster
- 39: Sometimes in successive terraces
- 40: Including the Quathlamba Range
- 41: Where Europeans can thrive and multiply
- 42: But is well covered with herbage
- 43: For Bechuanaland is intensely dry
- 44: Been taken as convenient political frontiers
- 45: And from the mouth of the Zambesi northward to Zanzibar
- 46: Which have made the plateau healthy
- 47: No cascade sparkles from the cliff
- 48: And one of singular charm in the adjoining colony of Natal
- 49: Monotonous as the landscapes often are
- 50: The wilderness is indeed not wholly unpeopled
- 51: Of the French in Algeria and Tunis
- 52: And those Bantu tribes whom we call Kafirs
- 53: Produced by intermarriage between Bushmen and Kafirs
- 54: The Basutos more disposition to steady industry
- 55: Begins with the advent of the whites
- 56: Side only one terrace and a low
- 57: But the buildings were here long before the mambos reigned
- 58: I visited a second ruin among the mountains of Mashonaland
- 59: Fragments of soapstone bowls were discovered
- 60: That on the hill was evidently a stronghold
- 61: Fifteen centuries before Mohammed
- 62: Their head chief was called the Monomotapa
- 63: In the last years of the eighteenth century Dingiswayo
- 64: The career of Tshaka has deserved some description
- 65: A chief had usually a head wife
- 66: Their weapons were the spear or assagai
- 67: The famous stronghold of the Basuto chief Moshesh
- 68: Sometimes the wizard acted as a physician
- 69: Which is generally practised by the Kafirs
- 70: To ask the great Molimo to send rain
- 71: In 1505 the Portuguese built a fort at Sofala
- 72: Between Sofala and Delagoa Bay
- 73: And to a less extent with Hottentot women
- 74: They were much molested by the Bushmen
- 75: They turned out the landdrosts
- 76: Bearing orders from the Stadholder of the Netherlands
- 77: Intercourse and by intermarriage
- 78: The colonists were profoundly disgusted
- 79: The brother and sucessor of Tshaka
- 80: Was established the kingdom of the Matabili
- 81: Drove Dingaan out of Zululand in 1840
- 82: Meanwhile an immense influx of Kafirs
- 83: This chief was the famous Moshesh
- 84: Which is now called the Basuto
- 85: Between the Vaal River and the frontier of Cape Colony
- 86: Still powerful beyond the Vaal
- 87: Now inscribed on his tombstone at Bloemfontein
- 88: A Kafir chief in the north east of the Transvaal
- 89: These people made good colonists
- 90: As the colonists had petitioned
- 91: And not responsible to the Cape legislature
- 92: The province of British Kaffraria
- 93: And by a native Batlapin chief
- 94: Taken in the belief that Waterboer had a good title to it
- 95: Largely at the instance of envoys from the Transvaal Boers
- 96: Cetewayo was defeated and made prisoner
- 97: Those of Potchestroom and Zoutpansberg
- 98: The Kafirs massacring the white families whom they surprised
- 99: Its annexation to the British crown
- 100: Shepstone and of Lord Carnarvon
- 101: It was now the overthrow of Cetewayo
- 102: To the suzerainty of the Queen
- 103: The loss of the Transvaal seemed a slight evil in comparison
- 104: Other bands of Boer raiders entered Bechuanaland
- 105: The Boers were all the more eager to acquire Swaziland
- 106: Whereof Lo Bengula claimed to be suzerain
- 107: One already existed with Lo Bengula
- 108: Lo Bengula fled towards the Zambesi and died there January
- 109: The leaders of the force at Pitsani
- 110: Footnote 35 See Chapter XVIII
- 111: Connects Beira with Fort Salisbury
- 112: Then the terminus of the Beira line
- 113: Waggon travelling would have been difficult or impossible
- 114: But if the team is one of mules
- 115: And the whole time required to reach Beira from England
- 116: About ten miles from Cape Town
- 117: Is to the quaint little town of Stellenbosch
- 118: Succulent shrub which the sheep eat
- 119: Has incidentally reduced the population of Kimberley
- 120: I heard from a missionary an anecdote of a Basuto who
- 121: The climate of Kimberley is healthy
- 122: It has since been opened all the way to Bulawayo
- 123: Northward from Mafeking the country grows pretty
- 124: Except for these waggons the road is lonely
- 125: I fought against Lo Bengula and drove him back
- 126: Khama is the chief of the Bamangwato
- 127: Lay beneath the beetling crags of granite
- 128: Exasperated by the slaughter of their cattle
- 129: Which Lo Bengula fired when he fled away
- 130: Been left in the hands of the indunas
- 131: Had been sent up among them by Lo Bengula
- 132: And in a new country like Matabililand the blacks
- 133: But from Bulawayo to the port of Beira
- 134: When there are large towns in Matabililand
- 135: From Dhlodhlo we drove to the store on the Shangani River
- 136: But at any rate there are no gambling saloons
- 137: Rocky hills rising here and there
- 138: Of similar pieces of trimmed granite
- 139: And Lo Bengula himself was opposed to war
- 140: Fort Salisbury is three years older than Bulawayo
- 141: And from Bulawayo to Fort Salisbury
- 142: Like the blocs perches of Western Europe
- 143: Some Kafirs were at work on their mealie plots
- 144: Formed partly by the rocks of the kopje
- 145: Having a distant mountain peak to steer my course by
- 146: There are several other kinds of ants
- 147: North of Penha Longa lies an attractive bit of country
- 148: Just when Tshaka was massacring his Kafir neighbours
- 149: Not even Portuguese local colour
- 150: But also in the prevalence of the tsetse fly
- 151: The Pungwe is here about one hundred yards wide
- 152: And stuck upon the sand so often that the Kafirs
- 153: And presently we were at Beira
- 154: First on the river between Beira and Fontesvilla
- 155: The third region comprises Matabililand and Mashonaland
- 156: The gold should have been already extracted
- 157: That in most of such articles Mashonaland
- 158: Tends among the Matabili to dissolve still further
- 159: Besides the Commissioner and Administrators
- 160: North East Rhodesia and North West Rhodesia
- 161: One route starts from Delagoa Bay
- 162: And called after the Berea mentioned in Acts xvii
- 163: Natal began to cast longing eyes on Zululand
- 164: For there are many German immigrants
- 165: Under the previous franchise law
- 166: Is close to the Quathlamba watershed
- 167: Moved along the ridge toward Majuba Hill
- 168: Than for those above to pick off skirmishers below
- 169: The banket is traversed by thin veins of quartz rock
- 170: That have made the Rand famous
- 171: The product of 1898 exceeded L15
- 172: Thinking those fit only for Kafirs
- 173: Are prominent objects in the suburbs
- 174: The room in which the Volksraad i
- 175: Pretoria and the lonely country to the north
- 176: The total gold output of the Transvaal was in 1898 $78
- 177: Jameson's expedition into the Transvaal in December
- 178: And the Volksraad or elective popular assembly
- 179: After having passed the Volksraad
- 180: Drew it nearer to the Transvaal
- 181: And brought us safely to Ladybrand at 9 P
- 182: Then Lerothodi led us out and showed us
- 183: The Basutos had plenty of ponies
- 184: And our Kafirs declared that this was the summit of Machacha
- 185: It was the den of the cannibal chief Machacha
- 186: Came at last to the mission station of Thaba Bosiyo
- 187: Moshesh rapidly acquired wealth that is to say
- 188: A message from Moshesh overtook him
- 189: And Moshesh would have been at their mercy
- 190: Moshesh forbade the smelling out of witches
- 191: To day the Pitso has lost much of its old importance
- 192: Basutoland is within the South African Customs Union
- 193: The disproportion is very much greater
- 194: The East Indians of Natal and the Transvaal
- 195: Sold or leased their allotments to Kafirs
- 196: Because they understand native character better
- 197: And a white man enters the service of a prosperous Kafir
- 198: Cape Colony has a so called curfew law
- 199: In Natal nearly all the Kafirs live under native law
- 200: The tribal natives are now settled in regular locations
- 201: And from the banks of the Zambesi
- 202: The South African Kafirs nearly all heathens
- 203: Will lose their present tribal organization
- 204: Now the religious ideas of the Bantu races
- 205: Though the Kafirs had no religion
- 206: Possesses that best kind of missionary temperament
- 207: A practice deeply rooted in Kafir life
- 208: Where are such precepts to be found
- 209: But many more are ranchmen or sheep masters
- 210: The Englishman will deride the slowness of the Dutchman
- 211: And especially the Witwatersrand
- 212: The South African newspapers impress a visitor favourably
- 213: To establish a teaching university
- 214: Johannesburg and Cape Town in particular are
- 215: In Cape Colony as well as in Natal
- 216: The population is homogeneous as regards religion
- 217: Therewith adopting a higher tariff
- 218: Many Englishmen share the Dutch feeling
- 219: Would also be discussed in the colonial Legislatures
- 220: And led to the formation of the Africander Bond
- 221: And no exciting struggles over purely domestic issues
- 222: That annexed their Republic in 1877
- 223: The Uitlanders settled only along the Witwatersrand
- 224: Altering the provision of the Grondwet
- 225: And its acts can be overruled by the First Volksraad
- 226: The Uitlanders were of many nationalities
- 227: Not meaning to spend their lives in the Transvaal
- 228: Of the Johannesburgers in November of that year
- 229: The English speaking Uitlanders numbered nearly 100
- 230: And extended the franchise to all immigrants after
- 231: In Johannesburg little else was talked of
- 232: Even when they have grievances to redress
- 233: But have entrenched themselves in Johannesburg
- 234: Different causes have been assigned for their action
- 235: The Transvaal difficulty remained
- 236: Obvious enough to any one who knows South Africa
- 237: Not only the Karroo region in the interior of Cape Colony
- 238: The Karroo seems a barren waste
- 239: 000 worth of diamonds have been exported
- 240: And in many spots through Matabililand and Mashonaland
- 241: But the land of this highest part of the Transvaal
- 242: And the tariff on other goods is almost solely for revenue
- 243: As the whites are not except at Johannesburg
- 244: And in the gold fields of the Witwatersrand
- 245: The five seaports will probably also grow
- 246: The urban element will be mainly mining
- 247: Had the Boers been of English stock
- 248: For they were scattered like antelopes over the lonely veldt
- 249: And they gave the colonists ground for complaints
- 250: Which gave the British a foothold in Bechuanaland
- 251: The old race questions have passed
- 252: Be the nexus of industrial interest
- 253: To be the halfway house to India
- 254: 000 Uitlanders in the Republic
- 255: No political agitation or demonstrations in the Transvaal
- 256: By the enfranchisement of the Uitlanders
- 257: Even apart from colonial expansion
- 258: To be herein after called the Transvaal State
- 259: The Honourable Jacobus Petrus de Wet
- 260: Within twelve months of the 8th August 1881
- 261: As representative of the Suzerain
- 262: And the Barolong authorities on the other
- 263: No grants of land which may have been made
- 264: Stephanus Johannes Paulus Kruger
- 265: And the Barolong authorities on the other
- 266: And in the Convention of Pretoria
- 267: Or in respect of their commerce or industry
- 268: 292 294Colonial policy of England
- 269: 473Constitution of Cape Colony
- 270: Impressions of South Africa by Bryce
- 271: 469National Union formed by the Uitlanders
- 272: 405 431Travelling and communications
