[Illustration: VILLAGE OF CHAMONIX.

1 Summit of Mont Blanc. 2 Bosses du Dromadaire. 3 Dome du Goute. 4 Aiguille du Goute. 5 Grands Mulets. 6 Glacier des Bossons. 7 Montagne de la Cote. 8 Glacier de Taconnaz.]

AN IMPROMPTU ASCENT

OF

MONT BLANC:

BY

_W. H. LE MESURIER._

LONDON: ELLIOT STOCK, PUBLISHER, 62 PATERNOSTER ROW.

BIRKENHEAD: E. GRIFFITH & SON, HAMILTON STREET. 1882.

BIRKENHEAD:

E. Griffith & Son, Printers, "Caxton" Works, Hamilton Street

[Illustration]

PREFACE

The interest which still follows individual ascents of Mont Blanc, notwithstanding the attraction of other mountain peaks, must be my apology for once again repeating an oft-told tale; but with this endeavour, to make the narrative a true and unvarnished account of what we did and how we did it, and to present the accompanying illustrations (which, for the most part, are taken from photographs) free from exaggeration.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Evening at Chamonix--Excursion to the Brevent--View of the Mont Blanc chain.

CHAPTER II.

Commencement of the ascent--Pierre Pointue--Crossing the Glacier des Bossons--An awkward bit--"Cabane" on the Grands Mulets.

CHAPTER III.

View from the Grands Mulets--A foreign invasion--Trying to sleep--Preparation for a night march.

CHAPTER IV.

The start at midnight--Ascending the Montees--Arrival at the Petit Plateau--An attempt at breakfast on the Grand Plateau--The expedition jeopardised through mountain sickness--Churlish "foreigners"--The ascent resumed--Repose on the Rochers des Bosses--Climbing the Mauvaise Arete--The final assault--The goal reached.

CHAPTER V.

Descending the "back bone"--Approach of clouds--An unfortunate slip--Floundering in the snow--In danger--An awkward descent--In and out of the snow--The "Cabane" at last--Delicious repose--The journey resumed--Re-crossing the Glacier--A thunderstorm in the Forest des Pelerins--Welcome back.

CHAPTER VI.

A few words on our complexions--Certificates procured--Ladies' preparation for an attempt--Nipped in the bud--Concluding remarks.

APPENDIX.

Table of contents (by pages)

• 1: An Impromptu Ascent of Mont Blanc by Mesurier
• 2: The Grands Mulets were no longer to be seen
• 3: Illustration VIEW OF MONT BLANC FROM THE BREVENT
• 4: Lower yet are the Glaciers des Bossons and Taconnaz
• 5: Three quarters of an hour after leaving Pierre Pointue
• 6: Illustration GLACIER DES BOSSONS
• 7: The existing Cabane is somewhat larger
• 8: At length this diabolical noise ceased
• 9: Francois moved forward with a lantern
• 10: Not even the jumping of a crevasse
• 11: And I will find my way back to the Grands Mulets
• 12: Puff nod puff then a longer doze
• 13: Whilst the alpenstock was being driven in
• 14: We stood on the summit of Mont Blanc
• 15: And down which we had expected to glissade
• 16: And the thought of the Cabane
• 17: Francois receiving one hundred and Jules fifty francs
• 18: Of the thousands who visit Chamonix every year
• 19: Lambard Meunier stated that the sun almost scorched him
• 20: Balmat returned that evening to Chamonix
• 21: Durnford and Henderson and twelve guides
• 22: With the exception of Mathieu Balmat
• 23: Bosworth felt violent nausea and headache
• 24: During the latter part of the ascent
• 25: Sent to Chamonix for assistance
• 26: Or go by steamer from Ouchy to Villeneuve
• 27: Rising thousands of feet above the valley of Chamonix