A JOURNAL OF A TOUR IN THE CONGO FREE STATE
by
MARCUS R. P. DORMAN, M.A.
Author of _A History of the British Empire in the Nineteenth Century. The Mind of the Nation_, A Study of Political Thought in the Nineteenth Century; _Ignorance_, a Study of the Causes and Effects of Popular Thought; and _From Matter to Mind_.
Originally published in 1905 by J. Lebegue and Co., Brussels and Kegan Paul, Trench, Truebner & Co., Ltd., London
Dedicated by Permission to His Majesty Leopold II, King of Belgium and Sovereign of the Congo Free State.
PREFACE.
This journal is practically my Diary reproduced with the minimum of editing in order that the impressions gained on the spot should be described without modification. It was never intended for publication, and was written only as an aid to memory. Consequently it is little more than a collection of rough notes.
Having left England with a prejudice against the Government of the Congo Free State and returned with a very strong feeling in its favour, I feel however that it is my duty to publish an account of what I did see for the benefit of those whose opinions are not already formed beyond recall.
As in all controversies where feelings subordinate reason and people judge more by their emotions than by evidence, many are too quick to-day to attribute interested motives to those whose opinions are not similar to their own. Since a great number of people in the Congo and at home are curious to know whether I was sent out by the Congo Government, the British Government or the _Times_, I will state here once for all that I went to the Congo entirely to please myself and with the hope of shooting big game. In order indeed to satisfy curiosity, I will go further and state that not only was I not paid for telling the truth, but that the trip cost me a great deal of money.
It is however delightful to remember that wherever I went I was treated with the greatest kindness and courtesy by all whether they approved of the system of the Congo Government or not and it gives me great pleasure to thank here the State officials, Missionaries of all denominations and Traders of various nationalities for their hospitality, friendship and valuable assistance.
M.R.P.D.
London 1905.
[Illustration: MAP--ITINERARY OF MARCUS R.P. DORMAN IN THE CONGO FREE STATE]
[Illustration: THE STEAMER _FLORIDA_.]
CHAPTER I.
London to Banana.
There was no time to spare. The ship sailed from Southampton in forty eight hours and I had only just arranged to accompany Lord Mountmorres on a tour in the Congo Free Stale. He was going out for the purpose of discovering the true condition of affairs in that country and of writing articles thereupon for the _Globe_ but incidentally hoped to have some big game shooting. After one has read much about a country it is always interesting to visit it and as the prospect of good sport was added in this case, I at once decided to brave the cannibals, wild beasts, and--most dangerous of all--the climate, and to seize the opportunity to visit the Congo.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Journal of a Tour in the Congo Free State
- 2: Surmounted by the mosquito net
- 3: Tobacco and cigarettes become damp and ferment
- 4: The Congo State on the other hand
- 5: The capital of the French colony of Senegambia
- 6: After Stanley's first descent of the Congo
- 7: Casement employed an interpreter
- 8: Lieutenant and Under Lieutenant
- 9: Illustration THE NATIVE HOSPITAL AT BOMA
- 10: The Commissaire of the District of Banana
- 11: The Governor General of the Congo Free State
- 12: It is not very hot in Boma about this time
- 13: 600 in number and is recruited for long or short service
- 14: Some becoming servants to the officials
- 15: A caravan route runs from Matadi to Leopoldville
- 16: The engines climb up this steep gradient
- 17: To see them eating kwanga fish or the flesh of elephants
- 18: For everyone carries his own bed on the Congo
- 19: Illustration CATARACTS AT LEOPOLDVILLE
- 20: The brass wire is cut into lengths called mitakos
- 21: Illustration STEAMERS AND DOCKS AT LEOPOLDVILLE
- 22: When the white man fired and killed all the crew
- 23: As the Flandre moors we decide to go ashore hunting
- 24: Chikaia at once became very excited and wished me to fire
- 25: Rolls of brass wire are cut up into mitakos
- 26: In the afternoon we reach Bolobo
- 27: Obedience and collective responsibility
- 28: Anything indeed belonging to the State is Bulamatadi
- 29: The Commissaire of the District with whom is staying Mr
- 30: On August 5th the Flandre proceeds up the river
- 31: Beyond the plantation is the cemetery for the whites
- 32: Which is about three miles from Coquilhatville
- 33: We leave Coquilhatville and steam down the river to Irebu
- 34: Lord Mountmorres remains at Irebu
- 35: We continue our journey to Ngero
- 36: There is also an old lady in Ikoko
- 37: Fermentation takes place without artificial aid
- 38: Because the natives had not collected rubber
- 39: Illustration THE UBANGI RIVER
- 40: Two or three very large tom toms
- 41: The medical officer for Ubangi
- 42: One night at Libenge as we were playing bridge
- 43: There is no drinking water at Songo
- 44: Chikaia had walked a long way carrying a heavy rifle
- 45: Chikaia apparently has a fine sense of satire or humour
- 46: Paying in beads at the rate of 40 centimes a kilogramme
- 47: Next morning much rubber is brought into Banzyville
- 48: Altogether the hammock is not comfortable
- 49: The sole property of the Chiefs and freemen were their huts
- 50: Illustration YOUNG SANGO GIRLS AT BANZYVILLE
- 51: The natives near the Ubangi have a very distinctive tatouage
- 52: And the export duty on tusks above 6 kilos in weight
- 53: He soon appears with one of our paddlers
- 54: We arrived at Yakoma about 5 p
- 55: The foals and calves looking strong and healthy
- 56: Illustration THE RIVER NEAR BANZYVILLE
- 57: A large village on the north bank of the Uele
- 58: About midday we land at Gembele
- 59: All around is evidence of game
- 60: Then fires are lighted and all are soon asleep
- 61: Illustration THE SULTAN OF DJABIR
- 62: Djabir is a disappointing place
- 63: Illustration WARRIORS AT DJABIR
- 64: Traces of elephant and antelope abound
- 65: A great luxury in canoe travelling
- 66: I left Buta on November 28th in the Milz
- 67: Illustration THE ITIMBIRI RIVER
- 68: Situated on the right bank of the Itimbiri
- 69: Illustration GENERAL VIEW OF BASOKO
- 70: Selling food or curiosities for mitakos or cloth
- 71: Next day Lieutenant De Neullemeister and I
- 72: Near the Mess we pass the house of Tippo Tip
- 73: Illustration THE FORCE PUBLIQUE AT STANLEYVILLE
- 74: One of the Posts of the Mongala Company
- 75: The mosquito bite has no effect
- 76: Just before we left Leopoldville
- 77: Next morning we leave Matadi for Boma in the Heron
- 78: And many other State Officials
- 79: The signatory Powers to that Act did not create