A LADY'S LIFE
IN THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS
Isabella L. Bird
Introduction by
Ann Ronald
University of Nevada, Reno
To My Sister, to whom these letters were originally written, they are now affectionately dedicated.
Contents
Introduction, by Ann Ronald
LETTER I
Lake Tahoe--Morning in San Francisco--Dust--A Pacific mail-train--Digger Indians--Cape Horn--A mountain hotel--A pioneer--A Truckee livery stable--A mountain stream--Finding a bear--Tahoe.
LETTER II
A lady's "get-up"--Grizzly bears--The "Gem of the Sierras"--A tragic tale--A carnival of color.
LETTER III
A Temple of Morpheus--Utah--A "God-forgotten" town--A distressed couple--Dog villages--A temperance colony--A Colorado inn--The bug pest--Fort Collins.
LETTER IV
A plague of flies--A melancholy charioteer--The Foot Hills--A mountain boarding-house--A dull life--"Being agreeable"--Climate of Colorado--Soroche and snakes.
LETTER V
A dateless day--"Those hands of yours"--A Puritan--Persevering shiftlessness--The house-mother--Family worship--A grim Sunday--A "thick-skulled Englishman"--A morning call--Another atmosphere--The Great Lone Land--"Ill found"--A log camp--Bad footing for horses--Accidents--Disappointment.
LETTER VI
A bronco mare--An accident--Wonderland--A sad story--The children of the Territories--Hard greed--Halcyon hours--Smartness--Old-fashioned prejudices--The Chicago colony--Good luck--Three notes of admiration--A good horse--The St. Vrain--The Rocky Mountains at last--"Mountain Jim"--A death hug--Estes Park.
LETTER VII
Personality of Long's Peak--"Mountain Jim"--Lake of the Lilies--A silent forest--The camping ground--"Ring"--A lady's bower--Dawn and sunrise--A glorious view--Links of diamonds--The ascent of the Peak--The "Dog's Lift"--Suffering from thirst--The descent--The bivouac.
LETTER VIII
Estes Park--Big game--"Parks" in Colorado--Magnificent scenery--Flowers and pines--An awful road--Our log cabin--Griffith Evans--A miniature world--Our topics--A night alarm--A skunk--Morning glories--Daily routine--The panic--"Wait for the wagon"--A musical evening.
LETTER IX
"Please Ma'ams"--A desperado--A cattle hunt--The muster--A mad cow--A snowstorm--Snowed up--Birdie--The Plains--A prairie schooner--Denver--A find--Plum Creek--"Being agreeable"--Snowbound--The grey mare.
LETTER X
A white world--Bad traveling--A millionaire's home--Pleasant Park--Perry's Park--Stock-raising--A cattle king--The Arkansas Divide--Birdie's sagacity--Luxury--Monument Park--Deference to prejudice--A death scene--The Manitou--A loose shoe--The Ute Pass--Bergens Park--A settler's home--Hayden's Divide--Sharp criticism--Speaking the truth.
LETTER XI
Tarryall Creek--The Red Range--Excelsior--Importunate pedlars--Snow and heat--A bison calf--Deep drifts--South Park--The Great Divide--Comanche Bill--Difficulties--Hall's Gulch--A Lord Dundreary--Ridiculous fears.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Lady's Life in the Rocky Mountains by Bird
- 2: Was the blazing Sacramento Valley
- 3: The squaws wore their hair thickly plastered with pitch
- 4: Frosty air near the summit pass of the Sierras
- 5: The largest building in Truckee
- 6: None of these grew near the Truckee
- 7: And one of the teamsters leading the horse towards me
- 8: Exquisite chipmunks ran across the track
- 9: I had a glorious ride back to Truckee
- 10: And I reluctantly turned my horse's head towards Truckee
- 11: Thundered up to the door of the Truckee House
- 12: Piety is not the forte of Cheyenne
- 13: The doctor said was ill of cholera
- 14: This settlement is called the Greeley Temperance Colony
- 15: And after supplying Greeley with irrigation
- 16: The Mountains look hardly nearer than from Greeley
- 17: The broncos stopped and smelt it
- 18: Get over canyons and all other difficulties into Estes Park
- 19: Of course the rarefied air quickens respiration
- 20: Chalmers came from Illinois nine years ago
- 21: Thomas Chalmers is the man's ecclesiastical hero
- 22: Chalmers rails at him for being a thick skulled Englishman
- 23: Chalmers repents of having consented
- 24: Double peaked summit of Long's Peak
- 25: Through an opening in a canyon
- 26: He returned more bumptious than ever
- 27: Chalmers tried gulch after gulch again
- 28: Chalmers offered me a bronco mare for a reasonable sum
- 29: Cankered by greed and selfishness
- 30: The cleaning of which had fallen into arrears
- 31: And a sirocco like a Victorian hot wind
- 32: The most beautiful scenery in Colorado
- 33: We cantered across six miles of prairie
- 34: Aspens shivered in gold tremulousness
- 35: Of a notorious ruffian and desperado
- 36: Fitly decorated the rough walls
- 37: Evans said that the weather was looking more settled
- 38: His revolver in his waistcoat pocket
- 39: Through a broken vista of purple gorges
- 40: The desperado was altogether out of sight
- 41: Inaccessible looking pile of granite
- 42: For such foothold as there is is secure
- 43: There is always water on the Peak
- 44: And then a tremendous ascent to the Notch
- 45: It was weird and gloriously beautiful
- 46: With the quiet Midland Countries' sound
- 47: With their peaks of rosy granite
- 48: Mountain Jim's cabin is in the entrance gulch
- 49: Poor Griff loves liquor too well for his prosperity
- 50: They get little help from Evans
- 51: Then suddenly into its mirror flash inverted peaks
- 52: We have sent at last to Longmount
- 53: And heightens the hilarity a little
- 54: Is playing the harmonium with a pipe in his mouth
- 55: Startled a herd of elk with uncouth heads and in the chase
- 56: She had a large yearling calf with her
- 57: Tossed and killed the calves of two other cows
- 58: About midnight the mercury fell to zero
- 59: I left Longmount pretty early on Tuesday morning
- 60: Upon the brown and treeless plain
- 61: And by means of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad
- 62: There was a lady there from Laramie
- 63: The great Divide of the Arkansas was in front
- 64: Or crosses between the Texan and graded shorthorns
- 65: I never saw mutton on any table
- 66: Birdie was sliding at every step
- 67: And still the landlady laughed and talked
- 68: Then we plunged into cavernous Glen Eyrie
- 69: Through fringes of crystalline ice
- 70: Bergens Park had been bought by Dr
- 71: Surrounded by interminable mountains
- 72: And the teamster who brought my pack
- 73: Cleft and canyoned by the river
- 74: And offered to swop their pack horse for her
- 75: So I saddled Birdie and rode away
- 76: One for the Colorado and the Pacific
- 77: I remounted Birdie to ride six miles farther
- 78: On which is written Forewarned
- 79: I met two freighters just after I left
- 80: And worthless firearms are universal
- 81: With the Dewys and so many kind friends there
- 82: And the canyon widened sufficiently for a road
- 83: The evening shadows had darkened over Georgetown
- 84: Mining destroys and devastates
- 85: And at three remounted my trusty Birdie
- 86: I left Longmount at eight on Saturday morning
- 87: And with an eeriness which craved for human companionship
- 88: The only meat is some pickled pork
- 89: Or talking to his beautiful mare
- 90: From whence he came to Colorado a few years ago
- 91: I came to Colorado now nearly three months ago
- 92: Whom we believed to be on the Snowy Range
- 93: And I went out and found Birdie
- 94: But I met him in the gulch coming down to see us
- 95: Kavan busy at the stove frying venison
- 96: Kavan keeps my ink bottle close to the fire
- 97: Buchan can hardly get his breath
- 98: Kavan has shown me without alteration from Paradise Lost
- 99: Butter enough thoroughly to cover the trout
- 100: In the afternoon Lyman and I rode to Mr
- 101: Who could find fault with even a hothouse atmosphere
- 102: Only eight miles from Longmount
- 103: The scattered houses and blessed lights of Longmount
- 104: She'll lose the track or be froze to death
- 105: Young Lyman talked in a hifalutin style
- 106: He fyked unreasonably about me
- 107: But nothing could exceed the beauty of the afterglow
- 108: Staring steadily at Jim as they gobbled
