A LITTLE TOUR IN FRANCE
[Illustration]
Novels by
HENRY JAMES
_Six Shillings each_
THE AWKWARD AGE
THE TWO MAGICS
WHAT MAISIE KNEW
THE OTHER HOUSE
THE SPOILS OF POYNTON
EMBARRASSMENTS TERMINATIONS
LONDON: WILLIAM HEINEMANN 21 Bedford Street, W.C.
[Illustration]
A LITTLE TOUR IN FRANCE
By HENRY JAMES
[Illustration]
WITH NINETY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOSEPH PENNELL
LONDON
WILLIAM HEINEMANN
1900
[Illustration]
Preface
_The notes presented in this volume were gathered, as will easily be perceived, a number of years ago and on an expectation not at that time answered by the event, and were then published in the United States. The expectation had been that they should accompany a series of drawings, and they themselves were altogether governed by the pictorial spirit. They made, and they make in appearing now, after a considerable interval and for the first time, in England, no pretension to any other; they are impressions, immediate, easy, and consciously limited; if the written word may ever play the part of brush or pencil, they are sketches on "drawing-paper" and nothing more. From the moment the principle of selection and expression, with a tourist, is not the delight of the eyes and the play of fancy, it should be an energy in every way much larger; there is no happy mean, in other words, I hold, between the sense and the quest of the picture, and the surrender to it, and the sense and the quest of the constitution, the inner springs of the subject--springs and connections social, economic, historic._
_One must really choose, in other words, between the benefits of the perception of surface--a perception, when fine, perhaps none of the most frequent--and those of the perception of very complex underlying matters. If these latter had had, for me, to be taken into account, my pages would not have been collected. At the time of their original appearance the series of illustrations to which it had been their policy to cling for countenance and company failed them, after all, at the last moment, through a circumstance not now on record; and they had suddenly to begin to live their little life without assistance. That they have seemed able in any degree still to prolong even so modest a career might perhaps have served as a reason for leaving them undisturbed. In fact, however, I have too much appreciated--for any renewal of inconsistency--the opportunity of granting them at last, in an association with Mr. Pennell's admirable drawings, the benefit they have always lacked. The little book thus goes forth finally as the picture-book it was designed to be. Text and illustrations are, altogether and alike, things of the play of eye and hand and fancy--views, head-pieces, tail-pieces; through the artist's work, doubtless, in a much higher degree than the author's._
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Little Tour of France by Henry James
- 2: Their value becomes thus private and practical
- 3: A Little Tour of France by Henry James
- 4: A Little Tour of France by Henry James
- 5: A Little Tour of France by Henry James
- 6: A Little Tour of France by Henry James
- 7: And the wondrous capital alone
- 8: But Touraine is essentially France
- 9: It connects the Palais de Justice
- 10: Gables and turrets of slate roofed chateaux
- 11: There are many grander cathedrals
- 12: The chanoine gardien of the church
- 13: There is nothing more delicate in all Touraine
- 14: Tours Plessis les Tours The Maison de Tristan
- 15: It certainly was better than Plessis les Tours
- 16: It is the water front only of Blois
- 17: The misdeed is not altogether to be regretted
- 18: Are the windows of all the chateaux of Touraine
- 19: The salamander is everywhere at Blois over the chimneys
- 20: The history of the Chateau de Blois declines
- 21: To go to Chambord you cross the Loire
- 22: Illustration CHAMBORD over the place
- 23: The Comtesse de Thoury had a manor in the neighbourhood
- 24: On the whole Chambord makes a great impression
- 25: Cheverny remains to me a very charming
- 26: The pedestal so big and the castle so high and striking
- 27: It was within the walls of Amboise that his widow
- 28: The Chateau de Chaumont was inexorably closed
- 29: And I would rather have missed Chinon than Chenonceaux
- 30: He was the sympathetic Checco still
- 31: But there was only one Chenonceaux
- 32: Some of the chambers of Chenonceaux
- 33: Breakfast not at Azay le Rideau therefore
- 34: Constitutes the principal treasure of Azay
- 35: Langeais is rather dark and grey
- 36: The drive back from Langeais to Tours was long
- 37: These horrible prisons of Loches
- 38: Loches has a suburb on the other side of the Indre
- 39: Was partly the fault of a tiresome wait at Vierzon
- 40: Vague lane brought me into sight of the cathedral
- 41: The frieze below represents the general resurrection
- 42: The nave is extraordinary in this respect
- 43: Vanderbilt is regarded in New York to day
- 44: This fifteenth century millionaire
- 45: At a short distance from it stands the Hotel Cujas
- 46: Than our dear English speaking cad
- 47: Indeed a much better hill than the gentle swell of Bourges
- 48: This front has a romanesque portal
- 49: First of the English Plantagenets
- 50: And the moat deepens and deepens
- 51: The Maison d'Adam is quite in the grand style
- 52: These features exist in still better form at Bordeaux
- 53: There is not much architecture at Nantes except the domestic
- 54: Whom we have encountered already at the Chateau de Nantes
- 55: It prepared me for the charms of La Rochelle
- 56: Was but a meagre back view of La Rochelle
- 57: The table and chair of Jean Guiton have been restored
- 58: From the bottom of its perch Poitiers looks large and high
- 59: Like all the churches of Poitiers
- 60: The great hall at Poitiers has a long pedigree
- 61: On such a spot as the ramparts of Poitiers
- 62: The Figaro which the old priest
- 63: I certainly didn't find it at Bordeaux
- 64: The road runs constantly near the Garonne
- 65: Which is the heart and centre of Toulouse
- 66: And the ancient custom of the Floral Games
- 67: With these objects the interest of the Capitol was exhausted
- 68: This episode rather broke the charm of Saint Sernin
- 69: The execution by torture of Jean Calas
- 70: There being two at Carcassonne
- 71: Viollet le Duc has worked his will upon it
- 72: Beginning with Romans and Visigoths
- 73: The young Raymond de Trincavel
- 74: As one is reminded at every turn
- 75: And market day at Narbonne is a very serious affair
- 76: I know not what appearance Beziers may present by day
- 77: Nothing could have been more meridional
- 78: I had left Narbonne in the afternoon
- 79: And Montpellier is one of the number
- 80: Bruyas wished to give publicity
- 81: This Peyrou to come to it at last is a wonderful place
- 82: The olive trees in Provence are half the landscape
- 83: Not to insist upon its Illustration THE PONT DU GARD
- 84: It was my belief that Aigues Mortes was a little gem
- 85: And if it is a very small sister of Carcassonne
- 86: From the battlements at the top
- 87: With the dusky greenness of the Jardin de la Fontaine
- 88: In regard to the arena at Nimes
- 89: The Maison Carree does not overwhelm you
- 90: He selected Tarascon at a venture
- 91: He finished the castle at Tarascon
- 92: Tarascon was mostly involved in a siesta
- 93: Arles quite misses its effect in every way
- 94: Except the delightful little church of Saint Trophimus
- 95: Is covered by slabs of coloured marble red
- 96: Before the charming portal of Saint Trophimus
- 97: That Les Baux was a pearl of picturesqueness
- 98: In the course of this drive to Les Baux
- 99: Is no general description of Les Baux
- 100: Seated ourselves among the ruins of the castle
- 101: Which was filled with descriptions of the horrible Troppmann
- 102: Avignon was my southernmost limit
- 103: Avignon the Palace of the Popes I did wrong
- 104: As you look from Avignon across the Rhone
- 105: Half an hour's walk brought me to Villeneuve
- 106: This great grey block is all Avignon
- 107: I had a prejudice against Vaucluse
- 108: The Sorgues was almost as full as the Rhone
- 109: Constitutes half the charm of Vaucluse
- 110: Had the merit of not being seated on the Rhone
- 111: Then by a castle of the princes of Nassau
- 112: Said to be those of a hippodrome adjacent to the theatre
- 113: The insufferable delays over one's luggage
- 114: Even on the sunny quay of the Saone
- 115: All I ever knew of the church of Brou I had gathered
- 116: The Church of Brou The responsibility rests
- 117: The monument of Margaret herself is on the left
- 118: The well fed Bressois are surely a good natured people
- 119: I stopped at Beaune in pursuit of the picturesque
- 120: If Dijon was a good deal of a disappointment
