OBSERVATIONS AND REFLECTIONS
MADE IN THE COURSE OF A
JOURNEY
THROUGH
_FRANCE, ITALY, AND GERMANY_.
By HESTER LYNCH PIOZZI.
IN TWO VOLUMES
Vol. I.
LONDON:
Printed for A. STRAHAN; and T. CADELL in the Strand,
MDCCLXXXIX.
PREFACE.
I was made to observe at Rome some vestiges of an ancient custom very proper in those days--it was the parading of the streets by a set of people called _Preciae_, who went some minutes before the _Flamen Dialis_ to bid the inhabitants leave work or play, and attend wholly to the procession; but if ill omens prevented the pageants from passing, or if the occasion of the show was deemed scarcely worthy its celebration, these _Preciae_ stood a chance of being ill-treated by the spectators. A Prefatory introduction to a work like this, can hope little better usage from the Public than they had; it proclaims the approach of what has often passed by before, adorned most certainly with greater splendour, perhaps conducted too with greater regularity and skill: Yet will I not despair of giving at least a momentary amusement to my countrymen in general, while their entertainment shall serve as a vehicle for conveying expressions of particular kindness to those foreign individuals, whose tenderness softened the sorrows of absence, and who eagerly endeavoured by unmerited attentions to supply the loss of their company on whom nature and habit had given me stronger claims.
That I should make some reflections, or write down some observations, in the course of a long journey, is not strange; that I should present them before the Public is I hope not too daring: the presumption grew up out of their acknowledged favour, and if too kind culture has encouraged a coarse plant till it runs to seed, a little coldness from the same quarter will soon prove sufficient to kill it. The flattering partiality of private partisans sometimes induces authors to venture forth, and stand a public decision; but it is often found to betray them too; not to be tossed by waves of perpetual contention, but rather to sink in the silence of total neglect. What wonder! He who swims in oil must be buoyant indeed, if he escapes falling certainly, though gently, to the bottom; while he who commits his safety to the bosom of the wide-embracing ocean, is sure to be strongly supported, or at worst thrown upon the shore.
On this principle it has been still my study to obtain from a humane and generous Public that shelter their protection best affords from the poisoned arrows of private malignity; for though it is not difficult to despise the attempts of petty malice, I will not say with the Philosopher, that I mean to build a monument to my fame with the stones thrown at me to break my bones; nor yet pretend to the art of Swift's German Wonder-doer, who promised to make them fall about his head like so many pillows. Ink, as it resembles Styx in its colour, should resemble it a little in its operation too; whoever has been once _dipt_ should become _invulnerable_: But it is not so; the irritability of authors has long been enrolled among the comforts of ill-nature, and the triumphs of stupidity; such let it long remain! Let me at least take care in the worst storms that may arise in public or in private life, to say with Lear,
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: Observations and Reflections Made in the Course of
- 2: Whose treatment of me deserves every possible acknowledgment
- 3: Why Boulogne would be a seraglio to him
- 4: Shews they feel no apprehensions
- 5: With studied eloquence and attentive flattery
- 6: Not less quickness of discernment surely
- 7: Was a delightful addition to our Coterie
- 8: Nobody could even pretend to feel themselves incommoded
- 9: Derived from an appearance of elegance and wealth elegance
- 10: And that the Rhone is emblematic of French rapidity
- 11: And twenty four where we supped
- 12: But of an American goistre I have never yet heard and Wales
- 13: The peasants here are apparently unhealthy
- 14: Where Italian hospitality first consoled
- 15: Cased in chrystal like our aspiques
- 16: And considers the second as infinitely more dispensable
- 17: To see whether they were really woodcocks
- 18: The drive from Novi on to Genoa is so beautiful
- 19: How there are at Genoa men without honesty
- 20: Happily uniting with English simplicity
- 21: And attribute every change in their health
- 22: Is fifteen pence English a day
- 23: Eramo pur jeri sera in Appolline G
- 24: Footnote H Would dry up old Neptune himself
- 25: The peculiar excellence of his lazaretto
- 26: As among the sequestered monks
- 27: When he is rending away the embroidery
- 28: Than here at Milan in the whole winter
- 29: I have not a crumb of pleasure in it
- 30: The paving of our streets here at Milan is worth mentioning
- 31: Per me sono stato sempre ignorantissimo I
- 32: And she lay on nine or eleven pillows
- 33: They reply e un uomo come un altro
- 34: Here is certainly much despotic power in Italy
- 35: The first evening's drive carried us no farther than Lodi
- 36: And the time of his passing through Cremona
- 37: And the ladies speak more Tuscan
- 38: And examining the book called Verona illustrata
- 39: May surely be deemed indeprivable
- 40: Verona is the gayest looking town I ever lived in
- 41: In familiar discourse che la pianta e buona
- 42: Inferior in every thing but situation to Merriworth
- 43: Je n'aime gueres messieurs les Italiens M
- 44: The University of Padua is a noble institution
- 45: And Padua has gone through that operation twice completely
- 46: And every carriage I meet here has a pug in it
- 47: Not bigger than a playing card
- 48: The curious and elegant islets upon which
- 49: Was disposed to hail the passage of its favourite
- 50: Which is black like the gondola
- 51: He sent publicly for Foscarini in the morning
- 52: Will be apt to cry out of Venice
- 53: That however suspicious the Venetians are said to be
- 54: Who still continue to cry Veni etiam
- 55: These pretty syrens were delighted to seize upon us
- 56: To try Venetian dames by English rules
- 57: Or souflet gauze infinitely becoming
- 58: We will return to the Bucentoro
- 59: Or you can have no diversion at all
- 60: Having heard that Guarini's manuscript of the Pastor Fido
- 61: Emai ritornate Footnote Begone
- 62: Our senate deliberates long before it decrees
- 63: Shining away in character of auctioneer
- 64: And asked Zingarelli his opinion of a favourite singer
- 65: Bertoni declared he never knew the bird's judgment fail
- 66: The new Podesta sent to Brescia
- 67: E sia che ardisca dir che siam crudele
- 68: Mi dica Signor Professore Toaldo
- 69: And best described by Monsieur de Voltaire
- 70: With what immediate images did it supply me
- 71: By the sight of an old pantomime
- 72: Said that there were no Electrides neither
- 73: But some untaught o'erhear the murmuring rill
- 74: How the famous Improvisatore Talassi
- 75: Both super eminent in their professions
- 76: When Shakespear and Ariosto shall be forgotten
- 77: To morrow we go forward to Bologna
- 78: Why Guido should never draw another picture like that
- 79: And the vice legate officiated in his place
- 80: Says the gentleman who shewed me the academy
- 81: Though a very elegantly minded man
- 82: Whilst I perambulated the palaces of the Bolognese nobility
- 83: And these more neatly moulded Appenines
- 84: Addison's prediction was verified
- 85: But in flavour they far exceed them
- 86: Is this a gran riccone Footnote Heavy pursed fellow
- 87: Here is much emulation shewed too
- 88: And the winner spread his velvet in triumph
- 89: As a cathedral is always called in Italy
- 90: Italians are natural in society
- 91: Surely their clamours and depredations have no equal
- 92: Our Florentines have nothing on earth to do
- 93: The Grand Duke enquires soon into his pretensions
- 94: We were next conducted to the Niobe
- 95: All of set garnets clear and perfect
- 96: Or she can never be phosphorick surely
- 97: Who dropped the immersion at baptism of themselves
- 98: And the coachman at Milan talks no broader than the Countess
- 99: But we are called away to hear the fair Fantastici
- 100: And came home contradicting Milton
- 101: The revived doctrines of Copernicus
- 102: Known by the name of the Florence Miscellany
- 103: Where the panther sits at the gate
- 104: Has seen little Lucca in a convex mirror
- 105: Is the head dress of Lucchese lasses
- 106: Si ce n'etait pas une republique mignonne
- 107: We shall see camels as variegated as cats
- 108: That the grapes hang untouched this 20th of September
- 109: But here is an English consul at Leghorn
- 110: Udney the British Consul is alone now
- 111: Prejudice however is not banished from Leghorn
- 112: We are Lucca people sure enough
- 113: Footnote AB Who has to do with Tuscan wight
- 114: Secluded from all mortal tread
- 115: Had not a friendly lizard waked
- 116: The cathedral here at Sienna deserves a volume
- 117: And who dares say that the surrounding campagna
- 118: As soon as approached by Canopus
- 119: And shut him up with his betters in the Capitol
- 120: Such are the meek triumphs of our meek religion
- 121: And pulled down such magnificent pillars
- 122: Seats and apodium of that have entirely disappeared
- 123: Caius Cestius's sepulchre however
- 124: Relative to the sacrifices of Bacchus
- 125: Or obelisk and the greatest antiquity surely
- 126: But the idol worshipped at Bola bola
- 127: But Guercino is such a painter
- 128: Of giving some idea of Guido's Phoebus
- 129: What however can make these Roman ladies fly from odori so
- 130: But the Palazzo Farnese is a more pleasing speculation
- 131: Is always called in Italy a Pieta
- 132: The Musaeum Clementinum is altogether such though
- 133: The figure of Curtius seems too near you
- 134: Such one's fancy forms young Isadas the Spartan
