A POPULAR ACCOUNT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES: AND THE DISCOVERY OF LAKES SHIRWA AND NYASSA 1858-1864
TO THE RIGHT HON. LORD PALMERSTON, K.G., G.C.B.
My Lord,
I beg leave to dedicate this Volume to your Lordship, as a tribute justly due to the great Statesman who has ever had at heart the amelioration of the African race; and as a token of admiration of the beneficial effects of that policy which he has so long laboured to establish on the West Coast of Africa; and which, in improving that region, has most forcibly shown the need of some similar system on the opposite side of the Continent.
DAVID LIVINGSTONE.
NOTICE TO THIS WORK.
The name of the late Mr. Charles Livingstone takes a prominent place amongst those who acted under the leadership of Dr. Livingstone during the adventurous sojourn of the "Zambesi Expedition" in East Africa. In laying the result of their discoveries before the public, it was arranged that Mr. Charles Livingstone should place his voluminous notes at the disposal of his brother: they are incorporated in the present work, but in a necessarily abridged form.
PREFACE.
It has been my object in this work to give as clear an account as I was able of tracts of country previously unexplored, with their river systems, natural productions, and capabilities; and to bring before my countrymen, and all others interested in the cause of humanity, the misery entailed by the slave-trade in its inland phases; a subject on which I and my companions are the first who have had any opportunities of forming a judgment. The eight years spent in Africa, since my last work was published, have not, I fear, improved my power of writing English; but I hope that, whatever my descriptions want in clearness, or literary skill, may in a measure be compensated by the novelty of the scenes described, and the additional information afforded on that curse of Africa, and that shame, even now, in the 19th century, of an European nation,--the slave-trade.
I took the "Lady Nyassa" to Bombay for the express purpose of selling her, and might without any difficulty have done so; but with the thought of parting with her arose, more strongly than ever, the feeling of disinclination to abandon the East Coast of Africa to the Portuguese and slave-trading, and I determined to run home and consult my friends before I allowed the little vessel to pass from my hands. After, therefore, having put two Ajawa lads, Chuma and Wakatani, to school under the eminent missionary the Rev. Dr. Wilson, and having provided satisfactorily for the native crew, I started homewards with the three white sailors, and reached London July 20th, 1864. Mr. and Mrs. Webb, my much-loved friends, wrote to Bombay inviting me, in the event of my coming to England, to make Newstead Abbey my headquarters, and on my arrival renewed their invitation: and though, when I accepted it, I had no intention of remaining so long with my kind-hearted generous friends, I stayed with them until April, 1865, and under their roof transcribed from my own and my brother's journal the whole of this present book. It is with heartfelt gratitude I would record their unwearied kindness. My acquaintance with Mr. Webb began in Africa, where he was a daring and successful hunter, and his continued friendship is most valuable because he has seen missionary work, and he would not accord his respect and esteem to me had he not believed that I, and my brethren also, were to be looked on as honest men earnestly trying to do our duty.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Popular Account of Dr. Livingstone's Expedition
- 2: The zambesi and its tributaries
- 3: The main object of this Zambesi Expedition
- 4: Besides making meteorological observations
- 5: Maclear of the same Observatory
- 6: As the Luawe had been called West Luabo
- 7: The Kongone is five miles east of the Milambe
- 8: And sugar cane are also raised
- 9: Mariano was best known by his native name Matakenya
- 10: And thence to an island opposite Shupanga
- 11: The Landeens would only come down on us for more tribute
- 12: And calumba root is plentiful in the district
- 13: Senhor Ferrao received us with his usual kindness
- 14: It is made fast to a strong cord of milola
- 15: Lest it should be wrecked on the Chifura and Kangomba rocks
- 16: Droughts are of frequent occurrence at Tette
- 17: The Portuguese of Tette have many slaves
- 18: Within a couple of days of Tette
- 19: The country between Tette and Panda Mokua
- 20: Who now felt as independent as the Banyai
- 21: The Makololo pooh poohed this story
- 22: And he pointed out the cataract of Morumbwa
- 23: The chief point of interest being of course Morumbwa
- 24: While the unbelievers in its prophylactic powers escaped
- 25: Tingane became at once quite friendly
- 26: We found further progress with the steamer arrested
- 27: They asked to be led to Nyanja Mukulu
- 28: On the west stands Mount Zomba
- 29: Proceeded to the Kongone to receive provisions from one of H
- 30: The Shire is much narrower than the Zambesi
- 31: It is also named Nyanja Pangono Little Lake
- 32: Comes to within two or three miles of Mboma village
- 33: Is said to have its source in the Milanje mountains
- 34: Thus keeping the molars sound by renewal
- 35: Commences a great forest of palm trees Borassus AEthiopium
- 36: And Chibisa had to be told that his child would never return
- 37: Like all other Manganja villages
- 38: And running away down into Lake Shirwa
- 39: Maize is grown all the year round
- 40: Then it receives its first twist on the spindle
- 41: We found men wearing the pelele
- 42: By drinking the poisonous muave
- 43: On reaching the village of the chief Muana Moesi
- 44: He was three days north east of Nusseewa
- 45: The women were observed leaving the village
- 46: For it is only by the ivory being carried by the slaves
- 47: If put into the mixture and a little fresh cassereep added
- 48: Who had gone overland from the Shire to Tette
- 49: Of the canoe path from this place to Quillimane
- 50: Myriads of two varieties of cockroaches infested the vessel
- 51: The wheat of Tette is exported
- 52: If the Banyai had come in a threatening manner
- 53: The Makololo explained to us that he was a Pondoro
- 54: We now had Mount Chiperiziwa between us
- 55: The Portuguese traders always submit to this tax
- 56: When bruised yield much fine strong fibre
- 57: Cuttee woodyee Kebrabasa good
- 58: The Zambesi suddenly expands at Chicova
- 59: And sleep in fumbas or sleeping bags
- 60: This practice is common in the Zambesi
- 61: Tette grey sandstone is common about Sinjere
- 62: The descent of a hippopotamus pitfall is easy
- 63: From the ravages of white ants
- 64: Our men thought Chikwanitsela an uncommonly stingy fellow
- 65: Our fracas with Mpende excepted
- 66: Pangola is the child or vassal of Mpende
- 67: On the left bank of the Loangwa
- 68: Called by the natives Sequasha
- 69: Water is scarce in the Mburuma pass
- 70: Howling hyenas also thought the savour tempting
- 71: Francolins of three varieties run across the path
- 72: The zebra has a great deal of curiosity
- 73: Who is said to be lord of all the Bazizulu
- 74: In the afternoon we came to an outlying hamlet of Kambadzo
- 75: Who live between the two rivers Kafue and Loangwa
- 76: Near the upper end of the Kariba rapids
- 77: Near Tabacheu or Chirebuechina
- 78: Outwitted the treacherous Batoka
- 79: Kirk found that the Mosibe is peculiar
- 80: A dozen of the tsetse are dried
- 81: Some with hoes quickly smoothed the ground for our beds
- 82: He accompanied his recitations on the sansa
- 83: Proved so fatal to poor Helmore
- 84: We gave Moshobotwane a present
- 85: Tuba recovered himself as speedily
- 86: Basaltic rock which there formed the bed of the Zambesi
- 87: At the base of this promontory
- 88: But Mosi oa tunya is so strange
- 89: Baldwin had nothing with him wherewith to pay
- 90: We venture to call the poku after the late Major Vardon
- 91: Mochokotsa then repeated our message twice
- 92: As Monare was now in the place of Sebituane
- 93: Whose husband Sekeletu had killed
- 94: They have lately killed Ponwane
- 95: And run away the moment they saw the terrible Matebele
- 96: As the Makololo also would steal
- 97: Mantlanyane was very angry when he heard of it
- 98: The Makololo women use water rather sparingly
- 99: Thou Mosale and thou Pekonyane
- 100: And then reconvert it into lead
- 101: Convoyed by Pitsane and Leshore with their men
- 102: It often gulps down the Konokono
- 103: The Makololo had once dispossessed the Batoka of Kalunda
- 104: We have seen a buffalo live long enough
- 105: And were well received by Sinamane himself
- 106: Moemba rallied him for coming on a wildgoose chase
- 107: Mpande accompanied us himself in his own vessel
- 108: Which probably caused Kebrabasa
- 109: Chikumbula said that the elephants plagued them
- 110: We found Sequasha in a village below the Kafue
- 111: I thought you were Bazungu Portuguese
- 112: And still at the base of Manyerere mountain
- 113: And we reached Tette early on the 23rd
- 114: They had nothing to eat but a little mapira
- 115: The Busungu is repulsive to some insects
- 116: And afterwards explore Lake Nyassa and the Rovuma
- 117: And passed up the Zambesi to the Shire
- 118: A few minutes after Mbame had spoken to us
- 119: But they made clear off to Tette
- 120: We heard that Chibaba was dead
- 121: The Ajawa ran off yelling and screaming
- 122: A few days after returning from Magomero
- 123: Who tried hard to make us go over and drive off the Ajawa
- 124: Looking back to the southern end of Lake Nyassa
- 125: The western side of Lake Nyassa
- 126: To be used as a relish millions of midges in a cake
- 127: Whereupon Marenga instantly took it off
- 128: Have expert thieves among them
- 129: On which were a number of armed Mazitu with some young women
- 130: Who had been incorporated into the Zulu tribe
- 131: We had one morning two hippopotami and an elephant
- 132: A small armed steamer on Lake Nyassa could easily
- 133: They were said to belong to an Ajawa chief named Mukata
- 134: The Ajawa have just killed my comrade
- 135: And then the good Bishop and Burrup
- 136: To take the ivory down from the interior to Tette
- 137: And therefore started in his gig for the Ruo
- 138: Entering an Anguru slave trading village
- 139: An island at the mouth of the Ruo
- 140: During our subsequent detention at Shupanga
- 141: They took four Mazaro canoe men to manage the boat
- 142: Birds are numerous on the Shupanga estate
- 143: Sunley performed the same experiment on the mainland
- 144: Were that the Rovuma was infinitely superior to the Zambesi
- 145: At difficult places the Mokadamo sometimes
- 146: After discharging their muskets and arrows
- 147: A body of Makoa had come from their own country in the south
- 148: A few miles west of the Makoa of Matingula
- 149: The Rovuma is joined by the Liende
- 150: Hunting the Senze Aulacodus Swindernianus
- 151: The people of Quillimane have no enterprise
- 152: The survivors of a small hamlet
- 153: The Shire swarmed with crocodiles
- 154: Thornton came up to us from Shupanga he had
- 155: Large masses of the people had fled down to the Shire
- 156: Brought on attacks of dysentery
- 157: Before attempting to carry another past the Cataracts
- 158: Large patches of mapira continued to grow
- 159: Sharp point a series of minute barbs are laid back
- 160: Instead of passing below the Cataracts
- 161: All the other Custom house officers refused to go to Kongone
- 162: We made arrangements to screw the Lady Nyassa together
- 163: The Makololo had her then entirely in charge
- 164: And are called Pamofunda or Pamozima
- 165: Proceed parallel with Lake Nyassa
- 166: And struck the stream Ribve ribve
- 167: The part we slept at opposite Mvai was named Paudio
- 168: Matunda had plenty of grain to sell
- 169: We entered the village of Katosa
- 170: That we paid little attention to the assertion of Chembi
- 171: We reached Molamba on the 8th September
- 172: But the late Archbishop Whately has proved
- 173: From this point up to Kota kota Bay
- 174: The trees around Katosa's village were Timbati
- 175: The Makololo and the others grumbled at their greediness
- 176: On these high downs we crossed the River Kaombe
- 177: Until the arrival of Europeans
- 178: And others northwards into the Loangwa
- 179: Though Muazi has suffered from the attacks of the Mazitu
- 180: Or Loapula is said to flow out of Bemba to the westward
- 181: And its feeders was to the north east
- 182: That it brought back dysentery
- 183: Muazi once presented us with a basket of corn
- 184: By going back to Kota kota Bay
- 185: Masiko attempted to purchase a goat
- 186: In the evening two of the Babisa came in
- 187: The Mazitu had attacked and killed two of them
- 188: Still on the east side of the Shire
- 189: He said he had been living in peace at the lakelet Pamalombe
- 190: We resolved to go south along the Lesungwe
- 191: Coupled with the subsequent conduct of the Ajawa
- 192: For the sole object of promoting this Mission to the heathen
- 193: Dripping top of misty Morambala
- 194: And as the delta has enlarged eastwards
- 195: During the trip from the Zambesi to Mosambique
- 196: On the 16th April we steamed out from Mosambique
- 197: But there being only two real Makololo among them
