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COLLECTION
OF
ANCIENT AND MODERN
BRITISH AUTHORS
VOL. CXLIV.
A
RESIDENCE IN FRANCE;
WITH AN
EXCURSION UP THE RHINE,
AND A
SECOND VISIT TO SWITZERLAND.
BY J. FENIMORE COOPER ESQ.
AUTHOR OF "THE PILOT," "THE SPY," &c.
PARIS,
BAUDRY'S EUROPEAN LIBRARY,
RUE DU COQ. NEAR THE LOUVRE;
SOLD ALSO BY AMYOT, RUE DE LA PAIX; TRUCHY, BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS;
THEOPHILE BARROIS, JUN., RUE RICHELIEU; LIBRAIRIE DES ETRANGERS,
RUE NEUVE-SAINT-AUGUSTIN; AND HEIDELOFF AND CAMPE,
RUE VIVIENNE.
1836.
PREFACE.
The introduction to Part I. of the "Sketches of Switzerland," leaves very little for the author to say in addition. The reader will be prepared to meet with a long digression, that touches on the situation and interests of another country, and it is probable he will understand the author's motive for thus embracing matter that is not strictly connected with the principal subject of the work.
The first visit of the writer to Switzerland was paid in 1828; that which is related in these two volumes, in 1832. While four years had made no changes in the sublime nature of the region, they had seriously affected the political condition of all Europe. They had also produced a variance of feeling and taste in the author, that is the unavoidable consequences of time and experience. Four years in Europe are an age to the American, as are four years in America to the European. Jefferson has somewhere said, that no American ought to be more than five years, at a time, out of his own country, lest he get _behind_ it. This may be true, as to its _facts_; but the author is convinced that there is more danger of his getting _before_ it, as to _opinion_. It is not improbable that this book may furnish evidence of both these truths.
Some one, in criticising the First Part of Switzerland, has intimated that the writer has a purpose to serve with the "Trades' Unions," by the purport of some of his remarks. As this is a country in which the avowal of a tolerably sordid and base motive seems to be indispensable, even to safety, the writer desires to express his sense of the critic's liberality, as it may save him from a much graver imputation.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Residence in France by James Fenimore Cooper
- 2: Laughable Scene in the Carrousel
- 3: Want of Cleanliness in Cologne
- 4: House and Grounds of Johannisberg
- 5: Chase of a little Boat Chateau of Blonay
- 6: Reception by General Lafayette
- 7: Here I find Lafayette seated at a table
- 8: The last of these informal interviews with General Lafayette
- 9: Or the plot which existed in the army
- 10: At length Knyphausen could contain himself no longer
- 11: Lafayette was one of the first that entered
- 12: The Queen and Madame Adelaide wearing evening hats
- 13: He was conversing with Lafayette
- 14: Whether I thought an executive
- 15: Under the pretence of being in a juste milieu
- 16: Lafayette laughed at this prediction
- 17: But political aristocracies like the peerage
- 18: A simple property qualification would
- 19: Atmospherical appearance denoting the arrival of the Cholera
- 20: A matchseller had been seized with the disease
- 21: Van Buren was in the other carriage
- 22: Fallen a victim to the cholera
- 23: Publish an engraving of a pear
- 24: By a little occurrence on the day just mentioned
- 25: General Lafayette made a similar request
- 26: Casimir Perier was of the number
- 27: Lamarque was attacked by his final disease
- 28: And as I reached the Carrousel
- 29: Without the previous sommations
- 30: And escape the imputation of infidelity
- 31: How would you like to be an honorary king
- 32: Finding the Carrousel closed to me
- 33: I was retiring by the upper guichet
- 34: Les canons grondent dans les rues
- 35: The Pont Neuf was crowded with troops
- 36: The National Guard was a little Mayeux looking fellow
- 37: Nearly opposite the porte cochere
- 38: While conscripts are and have been regularly drafted yearly
- 39: And tried to get a party to arrest the delinquent
- 40: As I passed on to salute Monsieur de Corcelles
- 41: Had occasion to admire in Lafayette
- 42: For those of Lafayette in preference to my own
- 43: And the Bourbons were virtually dethroned
- 44: And by erecting a different constituency
- 45: He pressed me to remain until the 4th
- 46: With Republique Francaise on the reverse
- 47: The filles de chambre weeping in the corridors
- 48: Inconsiderate Impulses of Americans
- 49: As is the case with the Tuileries and Louvre
- 50: That is to enclose the Carrousel
- 51: Louis Philippe has boldly broken ground
- 52: It was usual to build a smaller hotel
- 53: Besides the Duc de Montmorency
- 54: Better and cheaper in New York
- 55: And the consumer is highly taxed
- 56: The passport had been taken out for Brussels
- 57: We got a good view of the chateau of Ecouen
- 58: There is scarcely a panelled door
- 59: Exhausted the curiosities of Senlis
- 60: We looked at the pictures in Malines
- 61: Is much nearer the Flemish than the Dutch
- 62: Wappers permitted us to see his own painting room
- 63: There was a Paul Potter or two
- 64: Affirmed that it was by Teniers
- 65: He was shown all the maps in my possession
- 66: We went no farther than Thirlemont
- 67: The close intermarriages of the latter in his opinion
- 68: Are they necessarily inseparable
- 69: Has represented the people of Liege
- 70: With the aid of the Spa assistant
- 71: Spa must stand on its boundless summit
- 72: We loitered at Spa a fortnight
- 73: Long before we reached Aix la Chapelle
- 74: Canova walked with me on the terrace
- 75: Want of Cleanliness in Cologne
- 76: To make a pilgrimage to the house in which Rubens was born
- 77: In this part of Germany the postilions are no laggards
- 78: And then to inspect the cloisters
- 79: If not an Erz Herzog 26 Perhaps
- 80: When we drew near the fort environed town of Coblentz
- 81: Admiring the governor of Rhenish provinces
- 82: Having never seen a Gothic edifice
- 83: Perier had no authority either for using his name
- 84: That contains a tardy and very insufficient reparation
- 85: Perhaps the prevalent opinion of Europe
- 86: Au sujet de la maison de campagne du president
- 87: The present population of Pennsylvania being 1
- 88: Or a close hereditary aristocracy
- 89: Good hinter hausen 30 was good enough for him
- 90: That of Geissenheim is also delicious
- 91: Johannisberg has changed owners several times
- 92: We entered the palace at Biberich
- 93: The gardens of Biberich are extensive and beautiful
- 94: The King and Queen of Wurtemberg
- 95: The Bergestrasse mountain road commences
- 96: Which we had again met at Heilbronn
- 97: And reached Ludwigsberg to breakfast
- 98: And larger than Le Petit Trianon
- 99: Owing to some accidental influence
- 100: The capital of Hohenzollern Hechingen
- 101: From the tameness and monotony of Wurtemberg
- 102: We had travelled an hour or two towards Zurich
- 103: Were invariably on the side of the voituriers
- 104: I asked him if an extra horse could be had at Einsiedeln
- 105: I was pleased with the Lake of Lungern in 1828
- 106: And said it was the infallible barometer of Lungern
- 107: At length we caught a glimpse of the lake of Brientz
- 108: For we now preferred Grindewald to Lauterbrunnen
- 109: Jerome Bonaparte at La Lorraine
- 110: To produce a counter revolution in Berne
- 111: Form the principal attraction of Berne
- 112: The W s told me that Jerome arrived
- 113: Elective qualifications of Vaud
- 114: 32 Fortunately for the horses
- 115: And we drove up to the door of the Ours at Payerne
- 116: He rudely repelled the application of the commissionnaire
- 117: Vevey is less a place of fashionable resort than Lausanne
- 118: Thus in the Manhattanese dialect
- 119: The population of Vaud is about 155
- 120: Sparkling Champagne and Still Champagne
- 121: And we passed thirteen drunken men
- 122: I asked a labourer if he ever got grise
- 123: But the rest is not esteemed to be Hockheimer
- 124: Thus some of the Moselle wines
- 125: To choose their station somewhere on the shores of the Leman
- 126: The shores are everywhere bold about Vevey
- 127: The rocks of Savoy and the sublime glen of the Rhone
- 128: Though some probably meant disunion
- 129: If it redound to the discredit of either nation at all
- 130: They disseminate erroneous notions of the country abroad
- 131: Who teach the doctrine that the people are infallible
- 132: And the Leman has been in a foam
- 133: At a short distance from Lausanne
- 134: Especially between the Scotchman and myself
- 135: But that usages should be consistent with themselves
- 136: The people have hours and usages of their own
- 137: While the bise was blowing stiff
- 138: And we embarked in the Winkelried
- 139: Were the canton of Valais to say
- 140: At one o'clock we reached Liddes
- 141: By that refuge of the miserable
- 142: When the mules appeared to be suddenly relieved
- 143: Knew something about anthracite
- 144: Transport of Artillery up the Precipices
- 145: Bernard was more picturesque on paper than in fact
- 146: It struck us both as cold and constrained
- 147: We saw no cretins after leaving Martigny
- 148: Democracy in America and in Switzerland
- 149: The feelings of superiority they uniformly excite
- 150: And which are as much purer and holier
- 151: Were it confined to its Swiss horrors and Swiss magnificence
- 152: And the De Blonays of unquestionable standing
- 153: I know little of the history of Blonay
- 154: Blonay is surrounded by meadows of velvet
- 155: As democracy is in the ascendant
- 156: For so grave a functionary to take it
- 157: 41 Footnote 41 The American government
- 158: By discrediting the national character
- 159: A small certified blank book livret
- 160: Thus Vaud and Argovie were both provinces
- 161: Condition that none of them shall be raised in Tessino
- 162: Parts of the cantons are crowded with people
- 163: Than in the place whence the patois came
- 164: Bidding a final adieu to Vevey
- 165: When one touches on the eastern verge of the Jura
- 166: And I told them that we were not muddy logs of larch
- 167: We drove up to the post house in Dole
- 168: And the poetical conceptions of a postilion
- 169: Le Marquis felt disposed to visit the chateau
- 170: All this Lafayette sees and feels
- 171: The tier of states that lies behind the Carolinas
- 172: The family of La Grange live in the real old French style
