A TRAMP'S NOTE-BOOK
BY
MORLEY ROBERTS
AUTHOR OF
"RACHEL MARE," "BIANCA'S CAPRICE," "THE PROMOTION OF THE ADMIRAL."
LONDON
F. V. WHITE & CO. LTD.
14 BEDFORD STREET, STRAND, W.C.
1904
CONTENTS
PAGE
A WATCH-NIGHT SERVICE IN SAN FRANCISCO 1
SOME PORTUGUESE SKETCHES 16
A PONDICHERRY BOY 40
A GRADUATE BEYOND SEAS 51
MY FRIEND EL TORO 61
BOOKS IN THE GREAT WEST 71
A VISIT TO R. L. STEVENSON 79
IN CAPETOWN 88
VELDT, PLAIN AND PRAIRIE 95
NEAR MAFEKING 101
BY THE FRASER RIVER 110
OLD AND NEW DAYS IN BRITISH COLUMBIA 118
A TALK WITH KRUGER 128
TROUT FISHING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA AND CALIFORNIA 136
ROUND THE WORLD IN HASTE 142
BLUE JAYS AND ALMONDS 162
IN CORSICA 167
ON THE MATTERHORN 176
AN INTERNATIONAL SOCIALIST CONGRESS 186
AT LAS PALMAS 194
THE TERRACINA ROAD 204
A SNOW-GRIND 216
ACROSS THE BIDASSOA 230
ON A VOLCANIC PEAK 238
SHEEP AND SHEEP HERDING 244
RAILROAD WARS 256
AMERICAN SHIPMASTERS 263
TRAMPS 267
TEXAS ANIMALS 275
IN A SAILORS' HOME 282
THE GLORY OF THE MORNING 293
A Tramp's Note-Book
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Tramp's Notebook by Morley Roberts
- 2: Perhaps San Francisco is one of the hardest
- 3: I starved another twenty four hours
- 4: After the hymn followed prayer by the minister
- 5: The preacher spoke to us personally
- 6: Lisbon may not be pleasant for Englishmen
- 7: A strange scene reported to have taken place between Soveral
- 8: I hoped to see the Tagus at last
- 9: And at Cintra I evaded my obvious duty
- 10: Funchal has been a thousand times described
- 11: The Desertas showed plainly as rocky masses
- 12: As I knew her brother in Funchal
- 13: Rested on our getting back to Funchal that night
- 14: Do you come from Pondicherry
- 15: He and I were speaking Pondicherry
- 16: But you speak Pondicherry the boy say
- 17: Reading is mostly dram drinking
- 18: Hunger and thirst holding prominent lecturerships
- 19: He has the illusion of present immortality
- 20: The big brindled bull of Los Guilucos Ranch
- 21: But she would not come near El Toro for her very life
- 22: All alike agreed in being proud of El Toro
- 23: When I visited Los Guilucos seven years ago
- 24: It is perhaps little wonder that I associate Teufelsdrockh
- 25: And talked of it with my Michigan man
- 26: Surely this was Robert Louis Stevenson
- 27: They concerned the Samoans greatly
- 28: Towards Rondebosch and Wynberg
- 29: I saw Capetown spread out beneath me
- 30: And that of races on environment
- 31: And then I found it was incommunicable
- 32: When I was half way between Krugersdorp and Mafeking
- 33: But out upon the veldt it was very quiet
- 34: That a more energetic Dutch race
- 35: But especially in Oregon and California
- 36: If we count from Lytton and Yale
- 37: Who is now an hotel keeper at Kamloops
- 38: And when drunk they are only too often dangerous
- 39: This happened about ten miles below Yale
- 40: I was told to apply to a well known Pretorian journalist
- 41: Rhodes was Apollyon and a financier
- 42: And then start hunting grasshoppers
- 43: To the waters of Kamloops Lake
- 44: But I had to get to San Francisco
- 45: And the emigrant sleepers are on the slow train
- 46: Even if I had no luck I could still go steerage
- 47: We left him in gaol at Honolulu
- 48: Who had cashed cheques for me on the Continent
- 49: Another L12 brought me to London
- 50: With the romantic name of Luigi Zanoni
- 51: We had to drive from there across the summit to Vivario
- 52: But no one from Renno had been there
- 53: While I was at Zermatt this last summer
- 54: I saw by now that the Wellenkuppe was a little thing
- 55: The folks at Zermatt were staring
- 56: Made a fine speech in defence of the Anarchists
- 57: Then at last the English delegation
- 58: And after all Las Palmas is not all the island
- 59: For the Isleta is now a powerful fort
- 60: Yet folks curse its great folded dunes
- 61: And beyond it all was Confital Bay
- 62: Terracina was touched with literary memories
- 63: For Fondi is a gloomy and unhappy
- 64: The octroi post outside Formia
- 65: Equivalent in its way to preparing for an Alpine walk
- 66: Or for Monte Rosa or the Lyskamm
- 67: The Cima di Jazzi is very easy indeed
- 68: And then came the Rimpfischorn and Strahlhorn
- 69: But between us and its new city lies the Bidassoa
- 70: She had never heard of English Basques
- 71: To these I can now add Fuentarabia
- 72: At some other time Chahorra rose
- 73: SHEEP AND SHEEP HERDING With the introduction of fences
- 74: And then the lamb usually died
- 75: But the hindmost ewes suddenly stopped
- 76: There is none in working with sheep
- 77: The usual rate from New York to San Francisco is $72
- 78: And very much biassed considering their origin
- 79: Shanghai ing is not so much practised
- 80: And though perspicacity fairly floored him
- 81: For that would just kill a tramp
- 82: TEXAS ANIMALS The fauna of Texas is very varied
- 83: On these prairies there are occasionally to be found cougars
- 84: As far as the Home in Salthouse Lane went
- 85: In the dining room at Salthouse Lane there lived the wildest
- 86: And we went to work cleaning out the limbers
- 87: The Murrumbidgee and the Lachlan
- 88: Then she whinnied low as though she spoke to me in a whisper
- 89: But Beeswing was a bred stock horse
- 90: And Beeswing followed them like fire and came up with them
- 91: The weather leech came up easy and we chuckled
- 92: The indomitable word by the indomitable bo'sun at the bunt
- 93: We travelled on horseback and in a two mule buggy