A TRIP TO CUBA.

BY

MRS. JULIA WARD HOWE.

BOSTON.

TICKNOR AND FIELDS.

M DCCC LX.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by

TICKNOR AND FIELDS,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.

RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE:

STEREOTYPED AND PRINTED BY

H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. PAGE

I. THE DEPARTURE 1

II. NASSAU 10

III. FROM NASSAU TO CUBA 20

IV. THE HARBOR OF HAVANA 30

V. HAVANA--THE HOTELS 40

VI. HAVANA--YOUR BANKER--OUR CONSUL--THE FRIENDLY CUP OF TEA 48

VII. HAVANA--THE JESUIT COLLEGE 57

VIII. SAN ANTONIO DE LOS BANOS 66

IX. THE MORRO FORTRESS--THE UNIVERSITY OF HAVANA--THE BENEFICENZA 79

X. CAN GRANDE'S DEPARTURE--THE DOMINICA--LOTTERY-TICKETS 94

XI. COMPANY AT THE HOTEL--SERVANTS--OUR DRIVE--DON PEPE 111

XII. MATANZAS 132

XIII. THE PASEO--THE PLAZA--DINING OUT 145

XIV. GAME-CHICKENS--DON RODRIGUEZ--DAY ON THE PLANTATION--DEPARTURE 157

XV. RETURN TO HAVANA--SAN ANTONIO AGAIN 177

XVI. SAN ANTONIO--CHURCH ON SUNDAY--THE NORTHER--THE S. FAMILY 190

XVII. EDUCATION--LAST NIGHT IN SAN ANTONIO--FAREWELL 202

XVIII. SLAVERY--CUBAN SLAVE LAWS, INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 212

XIX. FAREWELL! 238

A TRIP TO CUBA.

CHAPTER I.

THE DEPARTURE.

Why one leaves home at all is a question that travellers are sure, sooner or later, to ask themselves,--I mean, pleasure-travellers. Home, where one has the "Transcript" every night, and the "Autocrat" every month, opera, theatre, circus, and good society, in constant rotation,--home,

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Table of contents (by pages)

• 1: A Trip to Cuba by Julia Ward Howe
• 2: And we take leave of our native land with a patriotic pang
• 3: Dancing up and down the state room floor with a cup of gruel
• 4: We made Nassau at twelve o'clock
• 5: Their Zouave costume is very becoming
• 6: Will do better there than in Cuba
• 7: Is nearly unknown in the Nassauese economy
• 8: The States have for the Nassauese
• 9: As Havana is an unco uncertain place for accommodations
• 10: I saw there the vilest of men and the vilest of women
• 11: The mastication of a stale roll
• 12: Every round finds him weaker and weaker
• 13: Envy the volante commanding women
• 14: As dressmakers in Havana are scarce
• 15: Your Banker is tolerably glad to see you
• 16: Birds in cages are hung about it
• 17: And so they went and saw Belen
• 18: Padre Doyaguez laughs at the ladies' hoops
• 19: At the last attack of Padre Doyaguez
• 20: If one makes up one's mind to the volante
• 21: You know that the volante cannot upset
• 22: Belonging to Don Jacinto Gonzales
• 23: Had lifted the curtain of the volante
• 24: Having made appointment with an accomplished Cuban
• 25: An orphan asylum and foundling hospital in one
• 26: The receptacle turns on its pivot
• 27: And longest of all near the crib of the little Cecilio
• 28: We found the boatmen in waiting
• 29: Brings us each a delicious orange granizada
• 30: At the Dominica he is especially persevering
• 31: The Dominica has still another aspect to you
• 32: The cruel cough that would not be left at the North
• 33: Dana recounts his shopping in Havana
• 34: Almy threatens continually to sell him
• 35: The Senor spares his dignity
• 36: Don Pepe de la Luz is a Cuban by birth
• 37: Which Concha burned before his face
• 38: Though the fair Ensor did berate him
• 39: But as Jenks is perfectly unknown to us
• 40: The jeunesse doree of Matanzas has made its appearance
• 41: This cascarilla is formed by the trituration of egg shells
• 42: Who will not suffer us to remain forever in the Ensor House
• 43: But Roque only doubled as he was bid
• 44: The two cocks are taken into the arena
• 45: The calesero picks his way carefully
• 46: The dead negroes being temporarily inclosed in a box
• 47: So at his request Candido was summoned from the well
• 48: Only because it was Cuban and characteristic
• 49: And here ends our account of Matanzas
• 50: The eternal piano is playing Norma
• 51: So have Dolores and Mariquilla
• 52: We shall certainly hear of Juanito some day
• 53: Would never have permitted Maria Luisa
• 54: Dotor Hernandez gravely explains and defends his practice
• 55: Dona Tomasita kindly placed her whole house
• 56: Dona Tomasita sends a parting gift of fruit
• 57: If there and thus you should see a white teapot
• 58: There are even mulatto representatives of extinct families
• 59: Then let the Enslaver look to it
• 60: Yet the Creoles seem generally an amiable set of people
• 61: The Empresario of the Tacon theatre
• 62: And would have been taken for mulattoes in the North
• 63: Where the farmer is employed on long leases
• 64: But which the Philosopher and Historian must alike reject
• 65: And here is Dona Herrera's garden
• 66: And we have got really to our last of Havana
• 67: But for love of the dear old Karnak
• 68: Wherewith he unscrewed all the ports