Transcriber's Notes:
1. The first page of Chapter VIII: the last line of text was partially missing, and a best guess was made on a few words.
2. Page 72: Typograpical error, 'nndertaking' changed to 'undertaking'.
3. Page 55, paragraph starting "Santa Anna", corrected 'past' to 'part'.
A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'
Our Home on fhe Ocean for Eleven Months
by
MRS. BRASSEY
Illustrated
Chicago: Belford, Clarke & Co.
1881
[Illustration: CAPE BRASSEY: SMYTHS SOUND]
DEDICATION
To the friends in many climes and countries, of the white and coloured races, and of every grade in society, who have made our year of travel a year of happiness, these pages are dedicated by the ever grateful Author
[Illustration: Portrait of the Author]
PREFACE.
This volume needs no elaborate preface. A general sketch of the voyage which it describes was published in the 'Times' immediately after our return to England. That letter is reprinted here as a convenient summary of the 'Sunbeam's' performances. But these prefatory lines would indeed be incomplete if they did not contain a well-deserved tribute to the industry and accuracy of the author. The voyage would not have been undertaken, and assuredly it would never have been completed, without the impulse derived from her perseverance and determination. Still less would any sufficient record of the scenes and experiences of the long voyage have been preserved had it not been for her painstaking desire not only to see everything thoroughly, but to record her impressions faithfully and accurately. The practised skill of a professional writer cannot reasonably be expected in these simple pages, but their object will have been attained if they are the means of enabling more home-keeping friends to share in the keen enjoyment of the scenes and adventures they describe.
THOMAS BRASSEY
[Illustration]
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
I. FAREWELL TO OLD ENGLAND
II. MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS
III. PALMA TO RIO DE JANEIRO
IV. RIO DE JANEIRO
V. THE RIVER PLATE
VI. LIFE ON THE PAMPAS
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam' by Annie Brassey
- 2: 'home'appendix list of illustrations
- 3: Hao or bow islandmaiteamaitean boatmanquarantine island
- 4: The principal dimensions of the hull are length for tonnage
- 5: And on the next day off Ushant
- 6: On which Captain Lecky and Mabelle were seated
- 7: Only the covering board and stanchions remaining
- 8: So we were obliged to leave her floating about as a derelict
- 9: Captain Brown and Captain Lecky came from below
- 10: At the extreme east of Madeira
- 11: Whose banks were overgrown with caladiums and vines
- 12: With whom we had arranged to ride up to the Gran Corral
- 13: And in preparing for our visit to Teneriffe
- 14: Goodall sent off at once for a carriage
- 15: It is composed of ashes and calcined chalk
- 16: And provided themselves accordingly with pine torches
- 17: The climate of Teneriffe is so equable
- 18: The extreme western point of Teneriffe
- 19: Composed entirely of volcanic deposits and small pieces
- 20: And I never tasted a mango until this morning
- 21: And trident and fish impaled in one hand
- 22: These seas used formerly to abound with whalers
- 23: Passing the false Sugarloaf mountain
- 24: After breakfast we returned to the Legation
- 25: Which are found on the mangrove trees
- 26: The torcha is a bright coloured black and yellow bird
- 27: About six miles from Petropolis
- 28: Over the mountains of the Serra
- 29: And we all started off to walk round the fazenda
- 30: Rio was entered from a fresh side
- 31: 12 rua do Viscande de Itauna No
- 32: We saw ahead of us large plantations of bananas
- 33: And set off for the peak of Tijuca
- 34: While beneath lies the bay of Rio
- 35: After making the lighthouse on Santa Maria
- 36: Where all the rich merchants reside in quintas
- 37: The lightships are simply old hulks
- 38: Consisting of courtyard within courtyard
- 39: But as Manchester provides the ponchos
- 40: For the whole journey from Buenos Ayres to Rosario
- 41: And then returned to the train and proceeded to Carcarana
- 42: There's tempest in yon horned moon
- 43: And then drove to the quinta of Baron Alvear
- 44: There is a fine bridge over the river near Frayle Muerto
- 45: But we reached the bottom of the Observatory hill in safety
- 46: In the course of the journey we passed a large estancia
- 47: Partridge hunting is considered good sport
- 48: And finally selected a small white fox terrier
- 49: More about the argentine republic
- 50: At half past six we reached the port of Tigre
- 51: Most of us went ashore in the whale boat at ten o'clock
- 52: Some of whom were to accompany us to Azul
- 53: Frer could get a man to help to stop the fight
- 54: The yacht had not been able to get near the pier at Ensenada
- 55: About one o'clock we saw the tug coming off again
- 56: Steaming round the yacht in the tug
- 57: As we passed some distance to leeward
- 58: And possibly some of the cargo
- 59: For fear they should be washed overboard
- 60: It may go on smouldering quietly for days
- 61: With which the chart tells us the country hereabouts abounds
- 62: The first and second officers of Mabelle and myself
- 63: ' our ensigns were duly dipped
- 64: Tom gave me a beautiful guanaco skin robe
- 65: With enormous carved modern stirrups
- 66: And the Fuegians or Canoe Indians
- 67: Illustration Fuegian Boat and Oars
- 68: Consisting simply of split branches of trees
- 69: First passing Glacier Bay and Ice Sound
- 70: One extremity of which is called Mayne Head
- 71: And icebergs were still wrapped in the deepest shade
- 72: Passed round the end of Saumarez Island
- 73: For this dust to reach the Messier Channel
- 74: And we spent the night in the Gulf of Penas
- 75: I want very much to catch an albatross
- 76: After luncheon we went to see the copper smelting works
- 77: A coach runs daily from Lota to Concepcion
- 78: He informed us that there were no Indians now at Angol
- 79: The Plaza was full of bright looking flower beds
- 80: At San Romde we left the river
- 81: The engine suddenly ran off the track
- 82: About five o'clock we arrived at Talca
- 83: Who promised to see after us at Cauquenes
- 84: With marble baths on either side
- 85: Illustration Huasso of Chili CHAPTER XI
- 86: In the cemetery of the Recoleta
- 87: The stud farm established by the late Don Luis Cousino
- 88: And from thence drove to the Cousino Park
- 89: On our return I found that one of the valuable ponchos
- 90: The station was crowded with vendors of pottery
- 91: A little below Quillota Station
- 92: Valparaiso consists mainly of two interminable streets
- 93: Juan Fernandez Robinson Crusoe's Island
- 94: Or we might still have seen Valparaiso
- 95: Illustration Conversation at Sea
- 96: To cease steaming and try sailing again
- 97: For now all the fore and aft canvas is stowed
- 98: Our fore and aft canvas was set again
- 99: This allowed the mizen awning to be spread
- 100: A fine breeze in the early morning
- 101: Illustration Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island At 1
- 102: Before we had lost sight of Amanu
- 103: The natives brought piles of cocoa nuts
- 104: The shells from which cameos are sometimes cut
- 105: One splendid meteor flashed across the sky
- 106: On account of the heavy rollers
- 107: Cocoa nuts were at the same time thrown down from the trees
- 108: And feared we might attempt to kidnap him and his crew
- 109: Sauf le court episode du mauvais temps
- 110: Who is at present at the island of Bola Bola
- 111: Lighted up by the flickering torches
- 112: And a thick undergrowth of guava
- 113: Verandahs covered with creepers
- 114: The mango is certainly the king of fruit
- 115: From Punauia onwards the scenery increased in beauty
- 116: It is the one good road of Tahiti
- 117: To add that the cockroaches were rather lively and plentiful
- 118: Was to leave for San Francisco at eight o'clock
- 119: Flint Island is a place whose existence has been disputed
- 120: At some large Irish or Devonshire farm
- 121: Tapa cloth and reva reva fringe
- 122: Another full of chopped cocoa nut
- 123: And we steamed full speed ahead
- 124: 'but them's the new compass cards
- 125: And by two o'clock were near the entrance to the Bay of Hilo
- 126: And the red cloud from Kilauea
- 127: Through a sort of desert of scrubby vegetation
- 128: The cloth and mallets were for sale
- 129: We walked down to the Sulphur Banks
- 130: As we proceeded the lava became hotter and hotter
- 131: Only describable by the term 'molten lava colour
- 132: If we had seen nothing but Kilauea since we left home
- 133: The choir from Hilo came out in boats in the evening
- 134: More fond of this game than of the pahe
- 135: Commanding a fine view of the bay and town of Hilo
- 136: Kahilis are also an emblem of rank
- 137: The easternmost headland of Oahu
- 138: Having heard that no sharks ever came into the long
- 139: After which we went to call on the Princess Likelike
- 140: Where we were entertained at a poi supper
- 141: A large ship through the opening in the reef
- 142: And yellow feathers over their shoulders
- 143: Queen Kapiolani is a nice looking woman
- 144: The dance took place in the large room of the Hawaiian Hotel
- 145: There were two immense kahilis about twelve feet high
- 146: Cheering and waving their handkerchiefs
- 147: In the afternoon one of the boiler tubes burst
- 148: Which freshened during the evening
- 149: The jibboom fell right across the forefoot of the yacht
- 150: As she was completely enveloped in spray and foam
- 151: Each of these vehicles holds one person
- 152: Inviting us to go up to Yeddo to morrow for a long day
- 153: With fires to keep the saki hot
- 154: And reached Tokio in about an hour
- 155: Each yashgi is surrounded by a blank wall
- 156: Riding in jinrikishas big men
- 157: The lovely little island is called Inoshima
- 158: Illustration Inoshima by a Japanese Artist
- 159: And at half past six Mabelle and I started for the market
- 160: And replaced by Kioto and Tokio
- 161: The Mikado was received on the platform
- 162: Kioto is a thoroughly Japanese town
- 163: From Gion we went to see other temples
- 164: Or what the Japanese call a Gohei
- 165: The Tycoon reigns in undisturbed sovereignty
- 166: Are incorruptible when once the bargain is made
- 167: Commerce has now almost deserted Osaka
- 168: We reached Kobe about seven o'clock
- 169: Besides pteris and hothouse ferns
- 170: In rather more than three hours we reached Arrima
- 171: The luncheon basket being quickly unpacked
- 172: These quick rides in a jinrikisha
- 173: And the extincteur was used freely
- 174: Illustration Yoken San or Sacred Mountain
- 175: Where we went to order some provisions for the yacht
- 176: Between the islands of Sikok and Kiusiu
- 177: During the night we passed Suwa Sima
- 178: In these sampans whole families
- 179: 'Take piecey missisy one piecey bag topside
- 180: Typhoons seem to be the greatest drawback
- 181: From the theatre we drove to the Chinese hospital
- 182: After a little chat we went on to the Deacon Hong
- 183: And makes the suburb of Shameen a perfect island
- 184: With joss sticks burning in front of her
- 185: Outside the temple stands the Jadestone Market
- 186: The three yamuns at our feet
- 187: It began with mandarin bird's nest soup
- 188: One small bottle of timtsin wine forty eight cash
- 189: There is a fine cathedral at Shameen
- 190: The silkworms are most carefully tended
- 191: And in consequence we did not reach Hongkong until 3
- 192: At Macao the sleep disturbing watchmen
- 193: With a temple on one side and a joss house on the other
- 194: Next we paid a visit to the garden of Camoens
- 195: We were off Singapore during the night
- 196: When they have done punkah pulling
- 197: Parrakeets ranged from twelve to thirty cents apiece
- 198: At four o'clock the carriage came round to take us to Johore
- 199: Until we came to a pepper and gambir plantation
- 200: And it was sent as a present by the ex Sultan of Johore
- 201: Illustration MALACCA Wednesday
- 202: After tiffin and a rest at the hotel
- 203: And the engineer is really ill
- 204: Large quantities of yellow spawn
- 205: From Wockwalla the view is lovely
- 206: Just in time to start by the first train to Kandy
- 207: Glowworms and fireflies came out
- 208: Whence we looked down upon Kandy
- 209: The fresh pair of horses jibbing and kicking worse than ever
- 210: And watched the hounds come out
- 211: He has obtained some rubies and sapphires
- 212: As we approached Colombo the heat became greater
- 213: Then one might go southward from Jaffna
- 214: Without the trouble of a journey to Manaar
- 215: At Colombo they made some windsails
- 216: We passed through a large shoal of porpoises
- 217: 21 All to day we have been going along the Soumali coast
- 218: We are all agreeably disappointed with Aden
- 219: Large supplies of which are brought daily into Aden
- 220: Illustration Straits of Bab el Mandeb
- 221: Hotter and still hotter every day
- 222: We passed the island of Rhas Garril
- 223: As we were steaming up towards Suez
- 224: We passed Chaloux and reached Ismailia just at nine o'clock
- 225: At half past six we reached Cairo
- 226: Then through the Turkish bazaar
- 227: And to the Turkish and Syrian bazaars
- 228: Homeward she drives before the favouring gales
- 229: The women in their black dresses and faldettas
- 230: The shopping street of Valetta
- 231: Which is a few minutes to the east of Greenwich
- 232: Selling lovely scarlet carnations and yellow roses
- 233: There was a strong wind off the mountains near Cape Sagres
- 234: And were immediately welcomed by several yachts
- 235: Did I know till then What love I bore to thee
- 236: ' 1
- 237: 66 67 22 37 s 40 39 w s
- 238: ' 1
- 239: 2 53 53 S 71 17 W Various 105
- 240: 156 ESE 6 12 Ditto Ditto 73 72
- 241: 20 42 N 157 20 W Various 200
- 242: 5 17 16 N 178 28 E W 102 38 S by E 4 13
- 243: 5 29 7 n 129 49 e sw 183
- 244: 8 15 40 n 113 48 e sse 20 128 ne 3 11
- 245: 3 79 8 16 n 70 31 e w 216
- 246: 5 27 13 n 34 5 e nnw 80
- 247: Various 20 5 S 2 to 1 11
- 248: Second Coxswain of the Gig WILLIAM SEBBORN
- 249: Visited in succession Hongkong
- 250: Every yachtsman should be a lover of sailing
- 251: And a north east gale off Cape Finisterre
- 252: Such is the perfection of the modern chronometer
- 253: And a north east gale off Cape Finisterre
- 254: And the faculties of the seaman before the mast
