This ebook was prepared by Les Bowler, St. Ives, Dorset.
VISIT TO THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, AND ITALY
[Illustration 1. Frontispiece:--JERUSALEM. ill1.jpg]
By Madame Ida Pfeiffer.
Translated from the German by H. W. Dulcken.
[Illustration 2. Title-page:--NAZARETH. ill2.jpg]
PREFACE BY THE VIENNA PUBLISHER
For two centuries the princes and nations of the West were accustomed to wander towards the land of the morning. In vain was the noblest blood poured forth in streams in the effort to wrest the country of our heavenly Teacher from the grasp of the infidel; and though the Christian Europe of the present day forbears to renew a struggle which, considering the strength that has been gradually increasing for the last six hundred years, might prove an easy one, we cannot wonder that millions of the votaries of Christianity should cherish an earnest longing to wander in the paths the Redeemer has trod, and to view with their own eyes the traces of the Saviour's progress from the cradle to the grave.
In the generality of cases, however, the hardships, dangers, and difficulties of such a journey were sufficient to overthrow the bravest resolution; and thus the wishes of the majority remained unfulfilled.
Few _men_ were found to possess the degree of strength and endurance requisite for the carrying out of such an undertaking; but that a delicate lady of the higher classes, a native of Vienna, should have the heroism to do what thousands of men failed to achieve, seemed almost incredible.
In her earliest youth she earnestly desired to perform this journey; descriptions of the Holy Land were perused by her with peculiar interest, and a book of Eastern travel had more charms for her than the most glowing accounts of Paris or London.
It was not, however, until our Authoress had reached a riper age, and had finished the education of her sons, that she succeeded in carrying into effect the ardent aspiration of her youth.
On the 2d of March, 1842, she commenced her journey alone, without companions, but fully prepared to bear every ill, to bid defiance to every danger, and to combat every difficulty. That this undertaking should have succeeded may almost be looked upon as a wonder.
Far from desiring publicity, she merely kept a diary, in order to retain the recollections of her tour during her later life, and to impart to her nearest relatives the story of her fortunes. Every evening, though often greatly exhausted with heat, thirst, and the hardships of travel, she never failed to make notes in pencil of the occurrences of the day, frequently using a sand-mound or the back of a camel as a table, while the other members of the caravan lay stretched around her, completely tired out.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Visit to the Holy Land, Egypt, and Italy
- 2: Scutari Kaiks The howling Dervishes The Achmaidon
- 3: Or Emmaus The scheikh Arrival at JerusalemCHAPTER VII
- 4: Across sea and mountain and plain
- 5: In three hours' time we reached Presburg
- 6: In which we had proceeded from Vienna to Pesth
- 7: Of the little free town of Neusatz we could not see much
- 8: In the neighbourhood of Pancsova
- 9: At one o'clock in the afternoon we reached Pasiest
- 10: A couple of miles below Drenkova
- 11: At eleven in the forenoon we reached Alt Orsova
- 12: And at eight o'clock had already reached Giurgewo
- 13: And at two o'clock stopped at Braila
- 14: Though Galatz lies on the Danube
- 15: At Galatz the Danube is very broad
- 16: We could now run in and cast anchor in the harbour of Varna
- 17: We had cast anchor in the neighbourhood of Topona
- 18: I was advised to go and see the dancing dervishes
- 19: Over this sash some wear a caftan
- 20: The rowers are strong handsome youths
- 21: Scutari Kaiks The howling Dervishes The Achmaidon
- 22: I traversed the Bosphorus in a kaik
- 23: Suddenly one of these maniacs fell lifeless to the ground
- 24: Must not be sought in the bazaars
- 25: Who thereupon procures the firmann
- 26: Situated in the immediate neighbourhood of the mosques
- 27: This cistern is no longer filled with water
- 28: In Ejub many very costly monuments are to be seen
- 29: The coachman walks on foot beside his cattle
- 30: Very interesting is also an excursion to Chalcedonia
- 31: When Constantinople was besieged
- 32: March in large numbers to the Campo with songs and music
- 33: The general hour of landing at Gemlek
- 34: But my curiosity to see Brussa
- 35: Under the guidance and protection of a kavasse
- 36: When suddenly the girths burst
- 37: I was advised to perform this journey in male attire
- 38: And so he was going to seek further information at Beyrout
- 39: The two castles of the Dardanelles
- 40: Halizar is distant about five English miles from Smyrna
- 41: Just as at Brussa and Constantinople
- 42: In Smyrna I found the most beautiful women I had yet seen
- 43: Grace many of the Gothic gateways
- 44: The streets of Larnaka are unpaved
- 45: This morning I could discern the Syrian coast
- 46: But demanded an additional backsheesh gratuity
- 47: No steamers sail between Joppa and Beyrout
- 48: And in the evening we had pilau
- 49: And a larger one at the end of each plait
- 50: The neighbourhood of Joppa is exceedingly fertile
- 51: Which rendered it more unpalatable to me than common pilau
- 52: And look more like flies than gnats
- 53: And pursue our journey through a stony region
- 54: The dragoman acting as interpreter
- 55: About an hour's journey from Jerusalem the valley opens
- 56: I could get neither beef soup nor beef
- 57: These houses are all inhabited by Turks
- 58: We could not look into the sarcophagus
- 59: That had also belonged to Godfrey de Bouillon
- 60: As He was brought across this bridge from Gethsemane
- 61: The third belongs to King Jehosaphat
- 62: A little farther on is the pool of Siloam
- 63: Many live in grottoes and semi subterranean domiciles
- 64: Quite in the background of the grotto
- 65: Their behaviour remained the same
- 66: With the exception of the little apricots called mish mish
- 67: He particularly mentioned how kindly Count Wratislaw
- 68: We only passed a horde of Bedouins
- 69: My conductor now took his leave
- 70: The temperature of the water was 33 degrees Reaum
- 71: Towards the verdant banks of the Jordan
- 72: Our Bedouins prepared for the combat
- 73: A field of cucumbers lies in front of every house
- 74: With a ghastly shot wound in his head
- 75: Quitting Jerusalem at three o'clock in the afternoon
- 76: We had still a good four hours' ride before us to Nablus
- 77: Two hours later we reached Djenin
- 78: For nearly two hours we rode across the plain of Esdralon
- 79: At a short distance from Nazareth
- 80: Deep down lies the little town of Tabarith
- 81: Tabarith lay still half in ruins
- 82: And with him came a puny roast fowl
- 83: Mount Carmel lies on the sea shore
- 84: Hookahs or tchibuks were also handed round
- 85: The refectory here is astonishingly dirty
- 86: At a later period of my journey I frequently visited harems
- 87: The Arnaut soldiers are universally feared
- 88: Allowing for the circuitous route by way of Tabarith
- 89: And who happened just then to be at Beyrout
- 90: And lest mischief should befall me
- 91: Journey from beyrout to damascus
- 92: Before us rose the lofty peaks of Lebanon and Anti Libanus
- 93: These are large gardens of mish mish
- 94: Which opened into the courtyard
- 95: We found the mish mish particularly good
- 96: And intended continuing his journey to Balbeck to day
- 97: Each plant contained several pods
- 98: With the exception of the town of Balbeck
- 99: They tower above the Cyclops wall
- 100: Once filled the niches and halls
- 101: Towards the foremost promontories of the Lebanon range
- 102: To a little grove of the far famed cedars of Lebanon
- 103: They were the first I had heard in Syria
- 104: Grottoes upon grottoes are seen
- 105: Herr Sattler was better to day
- 106: As on the way from Batrun to Djaebbehl
- 107: This aqueduct is seven or eight hundred paces in length
- 108: From Beyrout to Damascus about 60
- 109: I was almost worse off than during my stay in Beyrout
- 110: And thus the entire journey came only to ninety piastres
- 111: And hearing that we were sailing to Alexandria
- 112: And were therefore also in quarantine
- 113: So that dirt accumulates upon dirt
- 114: But the envoys of the innkeepers
- 115: Which was to start from Atfe the same evening
- 116: At eleven in the forenoon we reached Atfe
- 117: Or of bricks made of the Nile mud
- 118: The nearer we approached towards Cairo
- 119: Not far from the Delta we can behold the Libyan Desert
- 120: And on the road to the consulate
- 121: Then he came down to three piastres
- 122: And yet the Europeans can praise Mehemet Ali
- 123: The new palace of Mehemet Ali is rather a handsome building
- 124: That of Sultan Hassan and of Sultan Amru
- 125: Excursion to the pyramids of gizeh
- 126: And the lengthened mountain range of Mokattam
- 127: It was enough to have ascended the pyramid of Cheops
- 128: But was conducted to a raised gallery
- 129: Among whom were also many dervishes
- 130: Afterwards uniting with the fountain
- 131: But I was resolved to go to Suez
- 132: And a bottle of water two piastres
- 133: And then our laborious journey to Suez would be accomplished
- 134: The mountain range of Mokattam skirts the plain on the right
- 135: I remained at Suez until four in the afternoon
- 136: This journey from Cairo to Suez can
- 137: The government value of a collonato is twenty piastres
- 138: We discovered the island of Candia or Crete
- 139: We cast anchor in the harbour of Lavalette at seven o'clock
- 140: What a contrast to the quarantine house at Alexandria
- 141: And that the fellahs even inhabit the more fruitful country
- 142: Many inhabitants of Lavalette spend the summer here
- 143: They resolved to have luncheon first
- 144: Now we proceeded to the Ear of Dionysius
- 145: I had intended to remain at Catanea and ascend Mount Etna
- 146: As I wished to see the sights of Messina
- 147: For I could not be happy without seeing Stromboli
- 148: Made of beautiful marble and also covered with arabesques
- 149: In little niches close beside each other
- 150: Extending to the foot of Mount Rosalia
- 151: The distance from Palermo is about two miles and a half
- 152: There was a joyful cry of Napoli
- 153: And I felt inclined to prefer Palermo to Naples
- 154: The lazzaroni no longer go about half naked
- 155: The whole concluding with a grand ballet
- 156: Stands on the borders of the Lago Maggiore
- 157: Among which a beautiful Venus stands prominently forth
- 158: That to Puzzoli is certainly the most interesting
- 159: Stands on a hill near the Solfatara
- 160: And Herr Brettschneider remained outside with our guide
- 161: Immense chasms are filled with lava masses
- 162: The lava is of different colours
- 163: My last trip was to the Castle of Caserta
- 164: The passports are continually called for
- 165: It was already quite dark when we reached the Dogana
- 166: The cupola was executed by Michael Angelo
- 167: The biga is an antique carriage of white marble
- 168: John of Lateran possesses the wooden altar at which St
- 169: Are to be seen near the Colliseum
- 170: Stands in the neighbourhood of Ponte Centino
- 171: For Siena is well worthy to be explored
- 172: The remains of Michael Angelo rest here
- 173: A pleasant place near the Arno
- 174: And proceeded in the mail carriage to Bologna
- 175: We continued our journey through a lovely plain to Rovigo
