[Illustration: MAY KELLOGG SULLIVAN IN ALASKA DRESS.]
A WOMAN WHO WENT ---- TO ALASKA
By May Kellogg Sullivan
ILLUSTRATED
Boston: James H. Earle & Company 178 Washington Street
_Copyright, 1902_ _By MAY KELLOGG SULLIVAN_
_All Rights Reserved_
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER PAGE
I Under Way 9 II Midnight on a Yukon Steamer 19 III Dawson 28 IV The Rush 36 V At The Arctic Circle 48 VI Companions 58 VII Going to Nome 78 VIII Fresh Danger 81 IX Nome 94 X The Four Sisters 109 XI Life in a Mining Camp 131 XII Bar-Room Disturbances 149 XIII Off For Golovin Bay 162 XIV Life at Golovin 184 XV Winter in the Mission 199 XVI The Retired Sea Captain 215 XVII How the Long Days Passed 231 XVIII Swarming 247 XIX New Quarters 261 XX Christmas in Alaska 275 XXI My First Gold Claims 292 XXII The Little Sick Child 311 XXIII Lights and Shadows of the Mining Camp 325 XXIV An Unpleasant Adventure 340 XXV Stones and Dynamite 354 XXVI Good-bye to Golovin Bay 374 XXVII Going Outside 379
Transcriber's Note
Obvious printer errors have been corrected. All other inconsistencies remain as printed.
A list of illustrations, though not present in the original, has been provided below:
MAY KELLOGG SULLIVAN IN ALASKA DRESS. DAWSON, Y. T. CITY HALL AT SKAGWAY. PORCUPINE CANYON, WHITE PASS. MILES CANYON. UPPER YUKON STEAMER. FIVE FINGER RAPIDS. GOING TO DAWSON IN WINTER. A KLONDYKE CLAIM. EAGLE CITY, ON THE YUKON, IN 1899. YUKON STEAMER "HANNAH." FELLOW TRAVELERS. ESKIMOS. UNALASKA. STEAMSHIP ST. PAUL. NOME. LIFE AT NOME. CLAIM NUMBER NINE, ANVIL CREEK. CLAIM NUMBER FOUR, ANVIL CREEK, NOME. MAP OF ALASKA. ESKIMO DOGS. WINTER PROSPECTING. AT CHINIK. THE MISSION. CLAIM ON BONANZA CREEK. ON BONANZA CREEK. SKAGWAY RIVER, FROM THE TRAIN.
PREFACE
This unpretentious little book is the outcome of my own experiences and adventures in Alaska. Two trips, covering a period of eighteen months and a distance of over twelve thousand miles were made practically alone.
In answer to the oft-repeated question of why I went to Alaska I can only give the same reply that so many others give: I wanted to go in search of my fortune which had been successfully eluding my grasp for a good many years. Neither home nor children claimed my attention. No good reason, I thought, stood in the way of my going to Alaska; for my husband, traveling constantly at his work had long ago allowed me carte blanche as to my inclinations and movements. To be sure, there was no money in the bank upon which to draw, and an account with certain friends whose kindness and generosity cannot be forgotten, was opened up to pay passage money; but so far neither they nor I have regretted making the venture.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Woman who went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan
- 2: ' so you must not be surprised at her coming to Alaska
- 3: Illustration CITY HALL AT SKAGWAY
- 4: Conductor and brakeman were on the alert
- 5: For none of these things were furnished with the stateroom
- 6: And two non professionals with an accordion and a banjo
- 7: Illustration UPPER YUKON STEAMER
- 8: Never shall I forget my first experience at Fort Selkirk
- 9: And I dared not stay in my stateroom
- 10: I had been fourteen days coming from Seattle
- 11: A bunk with calico curtains hung around it was made for me
- 12: It was the little ship Alki upon which she went away
- 13: As to the entire yield of gold from the Klondyke Creeks
- 14: On Aleck McDonald's claim on Eldorado
- 15: Illustration A KLONDYKE CLAIM
- 16: Then the whistle again sounded the gangplank was hauled in
- 17: The Yukon is here very crooked and narrow
- 18: Illustration YUKON STEAMER HANNAH
- 19: Near the mouth of the Big Minook Creek constitutes the town
- 20: Paid $175 for five sacks of flour in the Klondyke
- 21: With her unruly overskirt waving wildly in the wind
- 22: Already loaded for a start for Nome
- 23: Back of this beach spread the tundra
- 24: On the way here a landing had been attempted at Nome
- 25: And were now going ashore at Nome
- 26: As we neared Unalaska on the Aleutian Islands
- 27: After many days out from Unalaska we began to look for land
- 28: Belonging to the Alaska Commercial Company
- 29: Working their passage as waiters on the ship to Nome
- 30: We were soon at the dock of Unalaska
- 31: Below it the bergs extended many times that distance
- 32: Our quartet sang five or six selections
- 33: They wanted to be on their way to Nome
- 34: Early next morning anchor was dropped at Nome
- 35: But all glad and thankful to arrive in Nome at last
- 36: The freight was being unloaded from the ship
- 37: Along with the remaining luggage
- 38: And you shall have a bed tonight the best in Nome City
- 39: As the rich Anvil Creek mine owners were usually designated
- 40: Where we crossed to the Sandspit
- 41: And on the Sandspit below us was a camp of Eskimos
- 42: The last boats were leaving Dawson
- 43: And no incoming steamers expected
- 44: A former Swedish missionary at Golovin Bay
- 45: Carpets and rugs were spread down
- 46: We had heard much of beach mining at Nome
- 47: And was designated as sour dough
- 48: Sourdough again put in an appearance
- 49: Deep tundra over the hills was warm
- 50: Two of the nuggets were long and flat
- 51: Had been washed out of the sluices
- 52: But they were crowded at one dollar per head to Nome
- 53: Upon my Swedish friends in their restaurant
- 54: Then I should like the roadhouse well enough
- 55: The surf was growing more rough
- 56: Rear the wreck upon its crest at landing
- 57: Some new danger must be impending
- 58: In the restaurant none knew exactly what to do
- 59: Lodged beside the warehouse at the mercy of the surf
- 60: At the head of my cot stood two small boxes
- 61: The bartender put out the lights
- 62: And would accompany us to Golovin
- 63: Mary wished to remain at Nome for a while
- 64: Ricka and I were only of medium height
- 65: Finally we selected our berths
- 66: Deep toned whistle of the Elk
- 67: I held the muckluks in my hands
- 68: Next morning I kept my berth late
- 69: Will we all look like that in muckluks
- 70: Ricka soon followed my example
- 71: From being lodged above a bar room in Nome
- 72: The second day of our arrival at Golovin
- 73: Drill parkies for mild weather
- 74: Those printed in Swedish being
- 75: And among them a child's cradle
- 76: The whole reindeer herd and their drivers
- 77: And tried the garment on Bessie
- 78: The staves were then their only resource
- 79: And Alma and I got dinner for them
- 80: And Ricka and I assisted in the kitchen
- 81: Alma is making herself a new dress skirt
- 82: And Ivan interprets it into Eskimo
- 83: Crossing Behring Strait from Siberia in the summer of 18
- 84: Ah Chugor Ruk was ahead with his team
- 85: From tin dishes upon the sleds
- 86: And Punni Churah looking after the captain
- 87: So on his snowshoes the captain hastened toward home
- 88: Drove their dog teams into Chinik
- 89: Assisted by the whooping footman with his black snake
- 90: Ricka says when the animals dashed over the big bank
- 91: The boys want to get off as soon as possible for Koyuk
- 92: All the little natives in fur parkies stood around
- 93: Has taken in two more little Eskimos
- 94: The commissioner sat for half an hour
- 95: Going with a native and reindeer
- 96: That there are unruly Eskimo youngsters
- 97: Upsetting my tall and slippery footed craft
- 98: We have heard that the Nome mail is in
- 99: From Nome they had brought two sled loads
- 100: And Mary's stories of Nome and the trail
- 101: Is making bunks in two rooms upstairs
- 102: And another man came from Nome
- 103: And my Eskimo guide sat until rested
- 104: And from there leave for Koyuk River
- 105: They went from Nome to assist at building the Home
- 106: At noon two hungry Eskimo children came
- 107: The Commissioner comes with his copying
- 108: All on their way to Nome by dog team
- 109: And I had a souvenir spoon just from Nome
- 110: And habitual discontent and discouragement
- 111: Bring Mellie another bottle of that wine
- 112: Soon Alma came riding on a reindeer sled
- 113: Thinking they knew better than he the way to Chinik
- 114: This is the last day of nineteen hundred
- 115: I wouldn't take any grub from you
- 116: And a small heater in one corner
- 117: Getting the men off for the Kuskokquim River
- 118: So it is hard lines for strangers coming to Chinik
- 119: And they toasted themselves until bedtime
- 120: Said he the other day to Mollie in Eskimo
- 121: And now I can kodak this whole district
- 122: I do not say that mandolin music is sinful on Sunday
- 123: Yesterday Mollie went out to hunt for ptarmigan
- 124: While Ricka went to work at the range
- 125: Again the boys are starting for the Koyuk River country
- 126: He says he is used to Alaska winters
- 127: As he worries both Mollie and Jennie
- 128: Made up the cot bed with my blankets
- 129: Mollie nodded significantly and said Your fox skins peeluk
- 130: To suffer later for his dissipation
- 131: And her other numerous Eskimo friends
- 132: The Swedish women in the Mission
- 133: Mellie and several others left for a dance at White Mountain
- 134: Here I found Jennie quite happy
- 135: O Duk Dok then drew on her parkie
- 136: The tundra was beautiful with mosses
- 137: Sim had done his dastardly work
- 138: Where it had fallen after shattering the window pane
- 139: Of course it is impossible for me to leave Chinik
- 140: With Muky and Punni Churah and their guns
- 141: Ituk politely taking my little bag
- 142: I motioned to Ituk to wait for me
- 143: Koki and Muky thought it great fun
- 144: And welcomed all new comers who landed in Chinik
- 145: She was given the Eskimo name of Yahkuk
- 146: Including the Alaska Commercial Company
- 147: Fort Yukon and the Flats were passed
- 148: Called out Swanson finally to his companion
- 149: At sight of the ghostly visitor
- 150: And we took our last look at Skagway
