A Wanderer in Holland
By
E.V. Lucas
With Twenty Illustrations in Colour By
Herbert Marshall
And Thirty-Four Illustrations After Old Dutch Masters
Contents
Preface I Rotterdam II The Dutch in English Literature III Dordrecht and Utrecht IV Delft V The Hague VI Scheveningen and Katwyk VII Leyden VIII Leyden's Painters, a Fanatic and a Hero IX Haarlem X Amsterdam XI Amsterdam's Pictures XII Around Amsterdam; South and South-East XIII Around Amsterdam: North XIV Alkmaar and Hoorn, The Helder and Enkhuisen XV Friesland: Stavoren to Leeuwarden XVI Friesland (continued): Leeuwarden and Neighbourhood XVII Groningen to Zutphen XVIII Arnheim to Bergen-op-Zoom XIX Middelburg XX Flushing
List of Illustrations
In Colour
Sunrise on the Maas Rotterdam Gouda The Great Church, Dort Utrecht On the Beach, Scheveningen Leyden The Turf Market, Haarlem St. Nicolas Church, Amsterdam Canal in the Jews' Quarter, Amsterdam Volendam Cheese Market, Alkmaar The Harbour Tower, Hoorn Market Place, Weigh-house, Hoorn The Dromedaris Tower, Enkhuisen Harlingen Kampen Arnheim The Market Place, Nymwegen Middelburg
In Monotone
Girl's Head. Jan Vermeer of Delft (Mauritshuis) The Store Cupboard. Peter de Hooch (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl Portrait of a Youth. Jan van Scorel (Boymans Museum, Rotterdam) The Sick Woman. Jan Steen (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Anxious Family. Josef Israels View of Dort. Albert Cuyp (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Never-Ending Prayer. Nicholas Maes (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl A Lady. Paulus Moreelse (Ryks) Pilgrims to Jerusalem. Jan van Scorel (Kunstliefde Museum, Utrecht) View of Delft. Jan Vermeer (Mauritshuis) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The School of Anatomy. Rembrandt (Mauritshuis) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl A Young Woman. Rembrandt (Mauritshuis) The Steen Family. Jan Steen (Mauritshuis) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Menagerie. Jan Steen (Mauritshuis) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl Portrait of G. Bicker, Landrichter of Muiden. Van der Heist (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Syndics. Rembrandt (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Oyster Feast. Jan Steen (Mauritshuis) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Young Housekeeper. Gerard Dou (Mauritshuis) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl Breakfast. Gabriel Metsu (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Groote Kerk. Johannes Bosboom (Boymans Museum, Rotterdam) The Painter and His Wife (?). Frans Hals (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl Group of Arquebusiers. Frans Hals (Haarlem) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Cat's Dancing Lesson. Jan Steen (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The "Night Watch". Rembrandt (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Reader. Jan Vermeer (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl Milking Time. Anton Mauve Paternal Advice. Gerard Terburg (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Spinner. Nicholas Maes (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl Clara Alewijn. Dirck Santvoort (Ryks) Family Scene. Jan Steen (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Little Princess. Paulus Moreelse (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl The Shepherd and His Flock. Anton Mauve Helene van der Schalke. Gerard Terburg (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl Elizabeth Bas. Rembrandt (Ryks) From a Photograph by Franz Hanfstaengl
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Wanderer in Holland by E. V. Lucas
- 2: As the Batavier boats reach Rotterdam at night
- 3: Rotterdam has the Pool in her midst
- 4: The barge is the Pickford van of Holland
- 5: And the clean west wind driving the windmills
- 6: And the aanspreker is continually hurrying by
- 7: Worked chiefly at Delft and Haarlem
- 8: The Boymans Museum contains also modern Dutch paintings
- 9: Can keep an ourang outang long
- 10: The Gouda windows in their way are very fine
- 11: It begins perfectly HOLLAND
- 12: That laid down For Hans in Kelder of a whole Hans Town
- 13: A seventeenth century Dutch English manual
- 14: Than at Rotterdam or The Hague
- 15: Was probably known as Dutch news
- 16: Dordrecht must be approached by water
- 17: At Dort the cargoes were unloaded
- 18: Dordrecht claims also Ferdinand Bol
- 19: Breitner has made such scenes his own
- 20: Episcopius heard his sentence with composure
- 21: A Gorcum friend extricated him
- 22: The town's aesthetic ideals were honestly outraged
- 23: The note of Utrecht is superior satisfaction
- 24: As one often sees in Holland called the Maliebaan
- 25: Or overtook one being towed towards Delft
- 26: The death of the Duke gave Gerard his chance
- 27: Past the statue of Grotius in the great square
- 28: When he defeated Monk off Texel in the summer of 1653
- 29: One sees the influence of Fabritius
- 30: How many pictures Vermeer painted between 1653
- 31: It is true that he has not touched the Bosch
- 32: And I see that Baedeker still withholds the distinction
- 33: In the Mauritshuis are sixteen Rembrandts
- 34: This is the house of Hendriks Willem Mesdag
- 35: The Stadtholders made the Binnenhof their headquarters
- 36: Barneveldt walked composedly to the place of execution
- 37: In his cell in the Gevangenpoort
- 38: Led on by Verhoef and one Van Bankhem
- 39: At The Hague it is the Lange Pooten
- 40: The Begger woman being thus provok'd with ill words
- 41: The Oude Scheveningen Weg is perhaps the pleasantest
- 42: This is one poem LIKE MELONS
- 43: Vader Cats had one in Oom Paul
- 44: I have been twice to Scheveningen
- 45: From Noordwyk we walked to Noordwyk Binnen
- 46: Some day perhaps I shall find myself at Leyden again
- 47: I thought much of Goldsmith as he was in 1755
- 48: And here a dirty Dutchman inhabiting a palace
- 49: Goldsmith did not finish there
- 50: And ate my first poffertjes and wafelen
- 51: You eat twenty four poffertjes and two wafelen that is
- 52: Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn was born on July 15
- 53: The first represents the Steen family
- 54: Steen did what Hogarth could not
- 55: Still a little while and the prophet Mathys crosses his path
- 56: Of which Knipperdollinch is chancellor
- 57: It is time to look at the work of Gerard Dou
- 58: Was suffered by Schalcken to burn his fingers
- 59: And Madam Watersouchy answered
- 60: Leyden treats pictures with some indifference
- 61: Leyden was sublime in its despair
- 62: Haarlem being the capital of the tulip country
- 63: Mijn Lust en Leven My Pleasure and Life
- 64: Or extend the drive to Haarlem's watering place Zaandvoort
- 65: The Dutch like to think that Coster was the man
- 66: Says the author of Through Noord Holland
- 67: That the ravelin should be undermined
- 68: And drowned in the Haarlem Lake
- 69: But his parents were true Haarlemers
- 70: Hals taught also Van der Helst
- 71: Simon Danz has come home again
- 72: Were two men strikingly like two of Frans Hals' arquebusiers
- 73: In the main Amsterdam is a city of trade
- 74: Therefore from Amsterdam they have banisht seacoale
- 75: You must seek the Kalverstraat and Warmoes Straat
- 76: The Dam gives the city its name Amstel dam
- 77: The comedian overflows with details
- 78: Where the electric trams start for Haarlem
- 79: The Amsterdamsche burgerweesmeisjes
- 80: At Busselinck and Waterman's trade is slacker still
- 81: Has eloped with the daughter of Busselinck and Waterman
- 82: This is the man who murdered Betsy
- 83: Says that if Etna in full eruption were taken to Holland
- 84: Look at Franz Hals' company of arquebusiers on the other
- 85: And makes Van der Helst a dull dog
- 86: 2527 Woman Reading a Letter damaged
- 87: A mysterious valley of trees by Corot
- 88: Peter de Hooch is himself represented in this little gallery
- 89: A very interesting excursion may be made to Hilversum
- 90: Is the fishing village of Huizen
- 91: Naarden and Muiden are curiously mediaeval
- 92: Before this deputation had reached Bussum
- 93: Nearly all the inhabitants of Naarden
- 94: Marken in winter wears perhaps a genuine air
- 95: The name of the straits between Monnickendam and Marken
- 96: The steam tram to Monnickendam runs on to Edam
- 97: Jan Cornellissen and Trijntje Kever
- 98: The day for Purmerend is Tuesday
- 99: Neither Zaandam nor Arnheim honours him
- 100: Proceeded formally to invest Alkmaar
- 101: Even in the recent history of Haarlem
- 102: Generally dressed like fishermen
- 103: I quote Motley's account Sonoy
- 104: Bossu was himself imprisoned at Hoorn
- 105: Nieuwediep is all shipping and sailors
- 106: I did not stay at Nieuwediep but at The Helder
- 107: Was once the residence of Radbod and the Kings of Frisia
- 108: South of Stavoren and Enkhuisen
- 109: Concerning Stavoren there is now but one thing to say
- 110: The third station on the railway to Leeuwarden
- 111: Sneek also possessed a giant named Lange Jacob
- 112: The number of tobacconists in Holland must be very great
- 113: Leeuwarden is large and prosperous and healthy
- 114: This alone makes it necessary to visit Leeuwarden
- 115: Jacobie Parochie that I saw my first stork
- 116: Another day I went to Harlingen
- 117: Eisa Eisinga whom she most admires
- 118: Whom Dokkum straightway massacred
- 119: Is in these parts known as the Juffer Lysse blom
- 120: Who are painted leaving their Doelen
- 121: Groningen takes very good care of itself
- 122: Zwolle has none of his pictures
- 123: Havard gives also the following instance of Kampen sagacity
- 124: While the Nes Straat specimens were fundamentally sound
- 125: In honour of his rescue he named his daughter Tesselschade
- 126: And Dobbel steert double tail
- 127: Among her new friends were Barlaeus
- 128: She had need to obtain linseed for a poultice
- 129: The best old Dutch phrase book is The English Schole Master
- 130: Truly I speak it from myne heart
- 131: The most good and great God graunt that I may
- 132: Het godgevallig feestlied in Voor Vaderland en Vorst
- 133: The river on which Nymwegen stands
- 134: Chief of which perhaps is the Valkhof
- 135: Reposed at Helvoet until the sea should subside
- 136: Heranguiere was rewarded by being made governor of Breda
- 137: From Bergen op Zoom we went to Tholen
- 138: And it is the case with Middelburg
- 139: Middelburg has never known a day's suffering since her siege
- 140: Foolish Betsy is the stadhuis clock
- 141: In hot weather the steam tram is the better way
- 142: Returning to Middelburg from Flushing one evening
- 143: By the Water Beggars under De la Marck
- 144: That his mother had given birth to a hangman
- 145: Sexiena came from the Fatherland