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A WOMAN'S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD, from Vienna to Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, and Asia Minor.
BY IDA PFEIFFER.
An unabridged translation from the German.
PREFACE.
I have been called, in many of the public journals, a "professed tourist;" but I am sorry to say that I have no title to the appellation in its usual sense. On the one hand I possess too little wit and humour to render my writings amusing; and, on the other, too little knowledge to judge rightly of what I have gone through. The only gift to which I can lay claim is that of narrating in a simple manner the different scenes in which I have played a part, and the different objects I have beheld; if I ever pronounce an opinion, I do so merely on my own personal experience.
Many will perhaps believe that I undertook so long a journey from vanity. I can only say in answer to this--whoever thinks so should make such a trip himself, in order to gain the conviction, that nothing but a natural wish for travel, a boundless desire of acquiring knowledge, could ever enable a person to overcome the hardships, privations, and dangers to which I have been exposed.
In exactly the same manner as the artist feels an invincible desire to paint, and the poet to give free course to his thoughts, so was I hurried away with an unconquerable wish to see the world. In my youth I dreamed of travelling--in my old age I find amusement in reflecting on what I have beheld.
The public received very favourably my plain unvarnished account of "A Voyage to the Holy Land, and to Iceland and Scandinavia." Emboldened by their kindness, I once more step forward with the journal of my last and most considerable voyage, and I shall feel content if the narration of my adventures procures for my readers only a portion of the immense fund of pleasure derived from the voyage by
THE AUTHORESS.
Vienna, March 16, 1850.
With the hope that we may forward the views of the authoress, and be the means of exciting the public attention to her position and wants, we append the following statement by Mr. A. Petermann, which appeared in the Athenaeum of the 6th of December, 1851:
"Madame Pfeiffer came to London last April, with the intention of undertaking a fresh journey; her love of travelling appearing not only unabated, but even augmented by the success of her journey round the world. She had planned, as her fourth undertaking, a journey to some of those portions of the globe which she had not yet visited--namely, Australia and the islands of the Asiatic Archipelago; intending to proceed thither by the usual route round the Cape. Her purpose was, however, changed while in London. The recently discovered Lake Ngami, in Southern Africa, and the interesting region to the north, towards the equator--the reflection how successfully she had travelled among savage tribes, where armed men hesitated to penetrate, how well she had borne alike the cold of Iceland and the heat of Babylonia--and lastly, the suggestion that she might be destined to raise the veil from some of the totally unknown portions of the interior of Africa--made her determine on stopping at the Cape, and trying to proceed thence, if possible, northwards into the equatorial regions of the African Continent.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: A Woman's Journey Round the World by Ida Pfeiffer
- 2: Madame Pfeiffer left for the Cape
- 3: Proceeded directly to Hamburgh
- 4: Might have embarked on board a fine fast sailing brig
- 5: Then begins an incessant hammering
- 6: Seventy four miles from Hamburgh
- 7: As the Elbe is not divided into different channels
- 8: We came in sight of the South Foreland
- 9: Near Madeira lie the rocky Deserta Islands
- 10: We very frequently saw the bonitos also
- 11: On the 27th of August we got beyond these hostile latitudes
- 12: The stiffish breeze cost us one sail
- 13: And soon singled out the Sugarloaf
- 14: Near these are the Praya Flamingo and Botafogo
- 15: Arrival and sojourn in rio janeiro
- 16: The finest is the Largo do Rocio
- 17: Every kind of dirty or hard work
- 18: In both cases the charge is six milreis 13s
- 19: And these are generally composed of negroes and mulattoes
- 20: And arrayed in his imperial robes
- 21: With catacombs formed in the walls
- 22: The last fete that I saw took place on the 2nd of December
- 23: And to the kindness and friendship of Herr Geiger
- 24: As regards the natural products of the Brazils
- 25: Negresses suckle them when they are infants
- 26: The Corcovado and the Two Brothers
- 27: As is the case with other palms
- 28: Herr Geiger had invited Count Berchtholdt
- 29: And the Cyprian grass are spread out
- 30: From Porto d'Estrella to Petropolis
- 31: And the way in which our parasols were hacked
- 32: As we arrived at Porto Sampajo by 2 o'clock
- 33: Though in the background we perceived a manioc fazenda
- 34: Surrounded by mountains at an elevation of 3
- 35: And neither dangerous nor troublesome
- 36: Fearlessly passes the night in some venda
- 37: Black beans with boiled carna secca
- 38: I had found lodgings in a venda for the last time
- 39: As well as in many other fazendas
- 40: About noon I arrived at Aldea do Pedro
- 41: Children whose parents were whites and Puris
- 42: Under some cocoa palms and tamarind trees
- 43: A few interesting particulars concerning the Puris
- 44: After shooting three parrots and an ape
- 45: About twelve miles from Novo Friburgo
- 46: Without visiting the waterfall near Novo Friburgo
- 47: And about forty miles from Santos
- 48: And then proceeded to scale the Serra
- 49: And then concluded by proceeding to the Botanical Garden
- 50: Which our captain affirmed was a slaver
- 51: Much more admiration than the other constellations
- 52: We saw the chalky mountains of Patagonia
- 53: For we were frequently becalmed
- 54: And ends off the Straits of Magellan
- 55: Arrival and residence in valparaiso
- 56: The Chilians have a yellowish brown complexion
- 57: But either the gaoler changed his mind
- 58: They frequently wear the Poncho
- 59: They name the deceased child an angelito
- 60: He was driving several asses over the mountain
- 61: The voyage from valparaiso to canton via tahiti
- 62: We reached the Archipelago of the Society Islands
- 63: Papeiti was full of French troops
- 64: The women wear a long full blouse
- 65: Which are the most unbecoming I ever beheld
- 66: On which stood one of the combatants with a pole
- 67: Is the handsomest man in Tahiti
- 68: As we had not left Papeiti till nearly noon
- 69: The mango is a fruit resembling an apple
- 70: During the time that the victuals were cooking
- 71: Each person had a cocoa nut shell full of miti before him
- 72: And their place is supplied by plantains
- 73: In an instant he tore off some plantain branches
- 74: The clouds became blacker and blacker
- 75: This kind of punishment was introduced under King Pomare
- 76: The road from the fort to the Diadem is extremely fatiguing
- 77: One of the largest of the Ladrone Islands
- 78: On the 9th of July we anchored in Macao Roads
- 79: As I had only agreed for a passage as far as Macao
- 80: Victoria is not very pleasantly situated
- 81: Whereas a passage in the junk was only three
- 82: Although Whampoa of itself is an insignificant place
- 83: Agassiz was extremely surprised
- 84: These compradors are very trustworthy
- 85: The thicker and longer this cue is
- 86: These thin grey moustaches are the more conspicuous
- 87: All with a wooden yoke can gue about their necks
- 88: But merely firmly compressed with bandages
- 89: This is more especially true of perspective
- 90: Agassiz returned at 5 o'clock in the morning
- 91: At the middle altar was the mandarin
- 92: I was better pleased with the residence of a bonze
- 93: While we were viewing the pagoda
- 94: The Herren Pagoda has three stories
- 95: With large baskets of provisions on their shoulders
- 96: There are never more than from two to four coffins
- 97: Having observed a mandarin's junk
- 98: For when Herr von Carlowitz addressed him in Chinese
- 99: Black tea takes some time to roast
- 100: This wicker work is placed before the windows and doors
- 101: I again set out on board a junk
- 102: But decidedly not to the passengers
- 103: On the 3rd of September we ran into the port of Singapore
- 104: The Island of Singapore has a population of 55
- 105: The nutmeg itself is also dried
- 106: I also visited a sago manufactory
- 107: And planted with pepper and gambir
- 108: Gambir is an article that is very useful in dyeing
- 109: Although Singapore is a small island
- 110: Had all got a white strip of cambric bound round their head
- 111: After the coffin was lowered into the grave
- 112: Which separates Sumatra from the peninsula
- 113: Which intersect Ceylon in every direction
- 114: The Mahomedans and Jews have more marked features
- 115: Many had forgotten their jackets and head coverings
- 116: Colombo is a very extensive town
- 117: Four miles before reaching Candy
- 118: Which contains a valuable relic of the god Buddha
- 119: In all of which the god Buddha appears al fresco
- 120: Persons sometimes go elephant hunting
- 121: And the heat reached 95 degrees Fah
- 122: But we did not weigh anchor much before evening
- 123: Both the cloths and jackets were white
- 124: Before these gauths are numerous pleasure and other boats
- 125: At the cost of three rupees 6s
- 126: There is a fifth class the Parias
- 127: And the floor of the latter is composed of Agra marble
- 128: Which is very common in Calcutta
- 129: On taking a book from the bookcase
- 130: Nor is the scene on the Hoogly less animated
- 131: Are partial to corpulent ladies
- 132: Both priests and danseuses are liberally paid
- 133: The temple of Kally is a miserable building
- 134: The Hindoos themselves acknowledge that their customs
- 135: The land journey is performed in post palanquins
- 136: From there we proceeded up the Gury
- 137: Today we perceived the low ranges of the Rajmahal Hills
- 138: The sap is at first quite clear
- 139: In the evening we stopped near Monghyr
- 140: Patna is a place of great importance
- 141: Ghazipoor is an important place
- 142: The Hindoo reverences the great purpose of nature
- 143: The adherents of Shiva bury their dead
- 144: It is very different in Benares
- 145: But connected with the god Shiva
- 146: And the innumerable Hindoo temples
- 147: The indigo plant is herbaceous
- 148: He took only a few whiffs from the same nargilly
- 149: The Brahmin answered that it would go to heaven
- 150: The Fakirs all go about almost naked
- 151: Luitpold attend to their proteges with true Christian love
- 152: More frequently called Brog by the Hindoos than Allahabad
- 153: These bungalows stand upon the post roads
- 154: The mausoleum stands in the centre of the garden
- 155: Which occupies the side towards the Jumna
- 156: Of all India the famous Taj Mehal
- 157: They lose in attraction by their proximity to the Taj Mehal
- 158: Fattipoor Sikri stands upon a hill
- 159: On the 19th of January I left the famous town of Agra
- 160: The present Delhi is now called New Delhi
- 161: Or at any time after the betrothal
- 162: The roof is arched over with mica
- 163: The laundress was therefore put off until the next month
- 164: Of the numerous mosques of New Delhi
- 165: The mausoleum of the Emperor Humaione
- 166: On the following morning we went on to Kotab Minar
- 167: The palace of Feroze Schah is near New Delhi
- 168: These Thugs form a singular sect
- 169: Sprenger very kindly made all the necessary preparations
- 170: Matara is a pretty little town
- 171: As I was about to leave the caravansary this morning
- 172: Today we came upon half a dozen of armed traveller waggoners
- 173: And that the capsules were as large as a child's head
- 174: Dedicated to the memory of the Suttis
- 175: There was no caravansary at this place
- 176: Rolland to see them carried out
- 177: And finer buildings than those of Benares
- 178: Two of the dancers first commenced
- 179: Be the incarnation of the god Vishnu himself
- 180: And patiently mounted my camel
- 181: Burdon had seen for four years
- 182: That mode was to be preferred to palanquins
- 183: Is the capital of the kingdom of Sindhia
- 184: In the afternoon I reached Indor
- 185: We were offered sweetmeats and fruits
- 186: Or when the soil does not contain any saltpetre
- 187: From which arose two half decayed minarets
- 188: There are no bungalows with rooms
- 189: In these there are no verandahs
- 190: And order him to bring the card of admission to me at Elora
- 191: Having safely received the admission in Roja
- 192: With a lofty arched dome and four minarets
- 193: An officer was robbed between Suppa and Puna
- 194: The bridegroom then departs with his friends
- 195: Expelled from Hindostan by the Mongols
- 196: Herr Wattenbach made my stay in Bombay very agreeable
- 197: Was as to the manner in which the Parsees bury their dead
- 198: A pious Parsee is supposed to pray daily four times
- 199: The Parsee women consider gold ornaments
- 200: Those from which toddy is extracted
- 201: Funerals and marriages always cost the Hindoos a great deal
- 202: Whole scenes of the Hindoo mythology
- 203: The rock temples of Elephanta and Salsetta rank
- 204: Which was to leave for Bassora on the 2nd of April
- 205: Which contains the greatest curiosity of Muscat
- 206: And in front by the charcoal fire
- 207: Who accompanied me to Bandr Abas
- 208: Towards noon we arrived at Bassora
- 209: Neither ruins of handsome mosques nor caravansaries
- 210: Modern ruins are abundant in Bassora
- 211: Half way between Bassora and Baghdad
- 212: Ctesiphon was formerly the capital of the Parthian
- 213: The isar gathers the dust from the ground
- 214: The ulcers generally appear with the ripening of the dates
- 215: Together with the dyeing of the eyelids
- 216: There is an utter disregard of it in the harems and baths
- 217: I made two long excursions from Baghdad
- 218: It succeeded Babylon and Seleucia
- 219: Ate the fat dishes without pilau
- 220: Even this ceases a few miles before coming to Assad
- 221: As I was resolved to reach Hilla today
- 222: In the ruins El Kasir stands a solitary tree
- 223: In the afternoon I was again in Hilla
- 224: And from Hilla to Birs Nimroud six
- 225: Herr Swoboda accompanied me there
- 226: And halted about 4 in the morning at Deli Abas
- 227: Our animals immediately went to their stalls
- 228: The son seldom contradicted him
- 229: But the Arab does not live so extravagantly
- 230: We here crossed the great river Sab by means of rafts
- 231: Which is already much narrower here than near Baghdad
- 232: At the village Nebbi Yunus opposite the town
- 233: Bearing the high sounding name Nimroud
- 234: I saw several idols and sphynxes in stone
- 235: While he had cucumbers and sweet melons
- 236: And Kurdistan bears a very bad name
- 237: We came to a ford of the river Badin
- 238: Was bounded by steep declivities
- 239: I had scarcely taken possession of this beggarly room
- 240: And taught them how to sew and mend
- 241: A coloured silk kerchief is wound round the fez
- 242: Mansur was to the last very hospitable
- 243: The chans and bazaars were all closed
- 244: And the Persian merchant received me with a welcome
- 245: And the caravan did not appear
- 246: We came up with a large caravan train
- 247: Wright the half of the agreed price
- 248: The dwellings of the wealthy are lofty
- 249: One missionary receives his friends at breakfast
- 250: I have great respect for missionaries
- 251: The chans were open to every one
- 252: Who bears the title of Viceroy
- 253: He urged the schach to recall his brother
- 254: That the schach honoured him as a prophet
- 255: And I wish to fetch another from Mecca
- 256: Which was fastened above the head kerchief
- 257: And consider themselves unfortunate
- 258: Who had received an excellent education in Constantinople
- 259: The melons have more frequently a whitish
- 260: Whom I had engaged as far as Natschivan
- 261: I left Arax betimes in the morning
- 262: For the purpose of striking off the lid
- 263: Fertile valleys round the foot of Ararat
- 264: The Cossack immediately jumped up
- 265: Must be paid per werst for each horse
- 266: Glassy lava of Iceland black agate
- 267: Several nomadic parties of Tartars
- 268: Several wide bridges are thrown over the Kurry
- 269: Even when they contained Circassians
- 270: Useful acquaintance which I made was that of Herr Salzmann
- 271: The springs are situated very near to the Kurry
- 272: The mountains drew nearer and nearer together
- 273: I had two stages to reach the village of Marand
- 274: According to the Russian calendar
- 275: Colchis or Mingrelia lies at the end of the Black Sea
- 276: They wore loose linen trousers
- 277: And had not even mantles or covering
- 278: Towards noon we arrived at Kertsch
- 279: It contains a few curiosities from the tumuli
- 280: The next part of my journey was to Odessa
- 281: Under the dominion of Genueser
- 282: The castle is built entirely of stone
- 283: For which each had to pay twenty kopecs 8d
- 284: The chief town of the government of Cherson
- 285: Who had taken a new ship to Odessa
- 286: Every now and then sounded the shrill cry of Guarda
- 287: And another drachma on leaving
- 288: From what I could see of the island of AEgina
- 289: The Acropolis remains continually in sight
- 290: Not far from the Areopagus is the Pnyx
- 291: Especially opposite to the Acropolis
- 292: Corfu is the largest of the Ionian Islands
- 293: The longitude can be determined both morning and afternoon
- 294: Which is planted all over the Brazils
- 295: 91b Carl Gutzlaff was born on the 8th of July
- 296: 160b Patna is the capital of the province of Bechar
- 297: 000 Parsees in the island of Bombay
- 298: Erivan was formerly called Terva
