Produced by Dan Anderson and Andrew Sly. Thanks to the John Muir Exhibit for making this eBook available. http://www.sierraclub.org/john_muir_exhibit/
The Yosemite
by John Muir
Affectionately dedicated to my friend, Robert Underwood Johnson, faithful lover and defender of our glorious forests and originator of the Yosemite National Park.
Acknowledgment
On the early history of Yosemite the writer is indebted to Prof. J. D. Whitney for quotations from his volume entitled "Yosemite Guide-Book," and to Dr. Bunnell for extracts from his interesting volume entitled "Discovery of the Yosemite."
Contents
1. The Approach to the Valley 2. Winter Storms and Spring Floods 3. Snow-Storms 4. Snow Banners 5. The Trees of the Valley 6. The Forest Trees in General 7. The Big Trees 8. The Flowers 9. The Birds 10. The South Dome 11. The Ancient Yosemite Glaciers: How the Valley Was Formed 12. How Best to Spend One's Yosemite Time 13. Early History of the Valley 14. Lamon 15. Galen Clark 16. Hetch Hetchy Valley Appendix A. Legislation About the Yosemite Appendix B. Table of Distances Appendix C. Maximum Rates for Transportation
Chapter 1
The Approach to the Valley
When I set out on the long excursion that finally led to California I wandered afoot and alone, from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico, with a plant-press on my back, holding a generally southward course, like the birds when they are going from summer to winter. From the west coast of Florida I crossed the gulf to Cuba, enjoyed the rich tropical flora there for a few months, intending to go thence to the north end of South America, make my way through the woods to the headwaters of the Amazon, and float down that grand river to the ocean. But I was unable to find a ship bound for South America--fortunately perhaps, for I had incredibly little money for so long a trip and had not yet fully recovered from a fever caught in the Florida swamps. Therefore I decided to visit California for a year or two to see its wonderful flora and the famous Yosemite Valley. All the world was before me and every day was a holiday, so it did not seem important to which one of the world's wildernesses I first should wander.
Arriving by the Panama steamer, I stopped one day in San Francisco and then inquired for the nearest way out of town. "But where do you want to go?" asked the man to whom I had applied for this important information. "To any place that is wild," I said. This reply startled him. He seemed to fear I might be crazy and therefore the sooner I was out of town the better, so he directed me to the Oakland ferry.
Table of contents (by pages)
- 1: The Yosemite by John Muir
- 2: These canyons are not gloom gorges
- 3: Spruce and libocedrus are also found in the Valley itself
- 4: Like those of the Yosemite Fall
- 5: The Dome Cascade and Tenaya Fall
- 6: In the Tenaya basin and its branches thirteen
- 7: Through this shining way Yosemite Creek goes to its fate
- 8: So glorious a display of pure wildness
- 9: The pathway of rock avalanches or snow avalanches
- 10: Since the current is outspread
- 11: Coming through the Little Yosemite in tranquil reaches
- 12: And below the confluence of the Illilouette
- 13: Tenaya Creek comes hurrying down
- 14: I saw a well defined spray bow
- 15: Down came a dash of spent comets
- 16: Kindling marvelous iris fires in the hoarfrost and spray
- 17: While the cone is in process of formation
- 18: And hanging snow banners on the comet peaks
- 19: Heaping and swelling flood over flood
- 20: Between Yosemite and Royal Arch Falls
- 21: Roaring currents in the canyons
- 22: After snow storms come avalanches
- 23: Which may be called annual and century avalanches
- 24: The Yosemite streams are in their prime
- 25: Fancy yourself standing beside me on this Yosemite Ridge
- 26: Earthquake Storms The avalanche taluses
- 27: I was awakened by a tremendous earthquake
- 28: Forming a ceiling that lasted until after sunrise
- 29: Trembling Yosemite was settled
- 30: Between the talus slopes and meadows
- 31: Or goldcup oak Quercus chrysolepis
- 32: But moraines vanish like the glaciers that make them
- 33: The Sugar Pine Pinus Lambertiana is king
- 34: Tasseled branchlets that extend all around them
- 35: Especially in those of the older yosemites
- 36: While the pendulous bracted cones
- 37: The Incense Cedar Incense Cedar Libocedrus decurrens
- 38: Its more regularly whorled and fronded branches
- 39: Feeding on the needles and cones
- 40: It is first met on the upper margin of the silver fir zone
- 41: The very loveliest of all the American conifers
- 42: The White Bark Pine The Dwarf Pine
- 43: And is included in the Sequoia National Park
- 44: The age of one that was felled in Calaveras grove
- 45: While the venerable aboriginal sequoia
- 46: I have a specimen block of sequoia wood
- 47: And inasmuch as those aged sequoias
- 48: Extending between the Calaveras and Tuolumne groves
- 49: Occurs the wide sequoia less channel
- 50: About the same size and the small Merced and Tuolumne group
- 51: The principal shrubs are manzanita and ceanothus
- 52: Woodwardia radicans is a superb
- 53: With beautiful two to four pinnate fronds
- 54: First and best of all is the water ouzel
- 55: They cannot fly over Yosemite walls
- 56: Especially the Indian Canyon groves
- 57: After returning from a visit to Mount Shasta
- 58: The most sublime feature of all the Yosemite views
- 59: Well preserved glacial monuments
- 60: Is seldom commanded by other glacial phenomena
- 61: And watered by the young Tuolumne River
- 62: And may well be called Yosemite glaciers
- 63: Comparatively swift flowing Hoffman Glacier
- 64: Between the Tuolumne and Tenaya basins
- 65: On the sides of the moraines we find a series of terraces
- 66: The less to be wondered at that these moraines
- 67: Vernal Fall and the wild boulder choked River Canyon
- 68: The beautiful Little Yosemite Valley and its many domes
- 69: Southward Yosemite and westward the vast forest
- 70: As far as the head of Illilouette Fall
- 71: Then make your way back to the Tioga road
- 72: For here in this upper Tuolumne Valley is the widest
- 73: And then the meadows at sunrise
- 74: You enter the narrow Lyell branch of the Valley
- 75: In making the trip down the Big Tuolumne Canyon
- 76: Though far less sublime than the Yosemite Half Dome
- 77: Spending a night in a good hotel at Wawona
- 78: Tenaya was silent for some time
- 79: Bunell suggested giving it a name
- 80: Except the youngest son of Tenaya
- 81: It was situated directly opposite the Yosemite Fall
- 82: We pushed on up through the Wawona firs and sugar pines
- 83: We entered the canyon by way of Hetch Hetchy Valley
- 84: And in building an extensive hotel and barns at Wawona
- 85: Not far from the Yosemite Fall
- 86: So does the Tuolumne through Hetch Hetchy
- 87: Corresponding in position with the Yosemite Tenaya Creek
- 88: Ever since the establishment of the Yosemite National Park
- 89: Like Hetch Hetchy and Yosemite Valley
- 90: Excepting that of the Merced below Yosemite
- 91: Range nineteen east Mount Diablo meridian
- 92: Range thirty east of the Mount Diablo meridian
- 93: And known as the Yosemite Valley
- 94: 00 Casa Nevada Nevada Fall
